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santelikk

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have an Ultra-mount plow and something is wrong. I drive up to the plow and the horns do not go all the way into the recievers. It stops about 2-3 inches shy, then I have to get out and wrestle the plow onto the truck. It takes about an hour to get the dang thing on.

I am not sure if I need to raise the truck or some how adjust the plow. Looking at the instructions from western, I need the pivot ploat in configuration 1, (which they are)

What appears to be happening is that the horns are angled upward too much, and are hitting the reciever that is why I am unable to get this connection. Is there a way to make the horns level?
 
can you post a picture of the plow/connection as you have the truck close to the plow as though you were hooking it up?

J's right, if the chains are too short, the horns will be too high, but if you unhooked it from the same truck, everything should line up when you come back to hook up.

Is there some travel left in the lift cylinder when you put the plow down?

Are you pushing the stands down when you unhook? Are they long enough to reach the ground?
 
Try this, tip the light tower forward, pull the chains off, then rock the light tower backwards until the horns are level. Then drive into it. Once it's on, put the chains back on. My pro plus didn't seem to have enough travel in the lift cylinder, so it was a pain getting the chains adjusted right yet still have enough lift height. My guess is along the lines of Jerre's feeback, the chains are too short, or there was tension on them (not in float) the last time the plow was unhooked, causing the tower to rock forward a little, and the horns to stick up too high. Thing to remember, is the position of those horns is relative to the position of the light tower, so if the light tower is rocked forward, you'll never get it on the truck.
 
My money's on a height problem. Forks are too low, so the lower edge of the pockets direct them up, but it just tips the tower forward instead of lining up and sliding in. Maybe the jackstands aren't long enough and the plow is "falling" off the truck when unhooking- that would cause a similar scenario, wouldn't it?
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
The jacks are plenty long enough. I can raise the rear of the plow to be higher than the recievers. I think it is what wizard is describing. When I took the plow off, I set it on a 4x4 so I don't think it was completely lowered. and the light bar is forward which puts the horns up in the air. I'll let you know tonight when I get a chance to look at it.
 
Sounds like a faulty plow. I''ll give 500.00 for the whole setup. lol . Make sure the plow horns are pulled back towards the plow. It happens when you move them with equipment or if you unhitched with ballast and then try to hitch without ballast.

Ray
 
I had a problem with a similar situation. My employee put the recievers on incorrectly.:mad: One was dead nuts on, the other was not in the pin pocket before he slid the locking pin in. Thus resulting in an incorrect angle for the plow horns to slide in.:( Check to make sure the recievers ar in the mount correctly. JMO.

Jon:popcorn2
 
Maybe Sans truck is lifted or modified in some way. Or he is not
dismounting the plow on level ground that is paved.

Most likley his plow stand "feet" need to be adjusted..........geo
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
In the half hour I had to look at it last night (2 jobs) the light tree had moved forward. I pulled it back, but there is still about a 1-1/2" rise in the horns.

Part of the problem is that like some have mentioned, I un hitched without any ballast, and now have that in my truck, I also moved the plow around while changing the hyd fluid.

I dont have to work tonight so I'll try to hook up. If things don't go well I'll get photos so that way you guys can see what is all going on.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
EzSnow Wins

The problem was in the height of the truck. The lower portion of they horn was hitting the receivers and forcing the lights forward. I turned the torision bars four cranks and then I was able to get it mounted. Now I have to figure out why whe in float the blade is 2-1/2 off the ground. I'll post pictures in the morning .
 
Looks like the cylinder isn't going down all the way. Steve (Pelican) suggested in your other thread to adjust the seal on top of the lift cylinder. I think he was on the right track. Either that or the drop speed adjustment. Either way, something's not allowing the plow to lower all the way, and you'll never have success mounting it if your lift cylinder wont lower all the way and allow the forks to align correctly for the next time you go to mount the plow. Solve that problem and I believe you'll have solved your mounting issues as well.
 
Contrary to popular opinion, I am not an expert on chains, but that one sure looks like a heck of a lot of excess chain on the wrong side of the lift arm.

I'm with J and Jon, lengthen the chain, put it in full float while the plow is on pavement, not a 4X4 and see if that makes a difference.

Mine always get screwed up in the fall because we store them on pallets to keep them out of the dirt. First time mounting we always screw around getting them hooked up. Especially when the unhooker didn't push the lift cylinder down the whole way.
 
I'm counting 14 links of chain above the lift arm. I think we have BDB's set at about 7-8 links, IIRC. So, as Dr J suggested in his first reply, lengthen the chain(s). Just make sure they are the same length.
 
I'm counting 14 links of chain above the lift arm. I think we have BDB's set at about 7-8 links, IIRC. So, as Dr J suggested in his first reply, lengthen the chain(s). Just make sure they are the same length.
Yeah, but that's on a Ford, this guys is on a chebbie... The chains look a little short, but still, shouldn't the lift cylinder go down further than that? Either way, the chains are gonna have to be lengthened because otherwise is wont float properly with the variations in asphalt, even if the lift cylinder went down a little further...
 
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