Where are most of you guys mounting your solenoids? I notice the new one Blizzard has is very large and with todays compact engine compartments it is getting even tougher than ever. I have seen a few guys mount them on the inside of their grills. I was thinking of that as well, but I am concerned with the elements inside the grill. Any thoughts?
Solenoid Mounting
River Hill
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Where are most of you guys mounting your solenoids? I notice the new one Blizzard has is very large and with todays compact engine compartments it is getting even tougher than ever. I have seen a few guys mount them on the inside of their grills. I was thinking of that as well, but I am concerned with the elements inside the grill. Any thoughts?
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How correct you are about lack of room to mount the solenoids on todays trucks.
Mount it "under" the hood in a place that will not get much if any road spray etc on it if possible.
It your using the OE Western; Fisher or similiar Boss solenoids try to mount them with the battery terminals facing up if possible, as the say that long term operation is improved.
What ever you do "don't" bury it some place that you can't get to easily, as we all knew they don't fail when your truck is in a warm well lit garage on a summer afternoon.
John......................
Mount it "under" the hood in a place that will not get much if any road spray etc on it if possible.
It your using the OE Western; Fisher or similiar Boss solenoids try to mount them with the battery terminals facing up if possible, as the say that long term operation is improved.
What ever you do "don't" bury it some place that you can't get to easily, as we all knew they don't fail when your truck is in a warm well lit garage on a summer afternoon.
John......................solenoid mounting
I had a 96 dodge 2500, and now a 01 dodge 3500. I run boss plows. I have the selenoid mounted under the hood on the wheel well. I have enough space around it to do a change out easily enough on site. Just watch the positive wire. you will end up welding on site if you change out the selenoid w/o disconnecting the battery.
I had a 96 dodge 2500, and now a 01 dodge 3500. I run boss plows. I have the selenoid mounted under the hood on the wheel well. I have enough space around it to do a change out easily enough on site. Just watch the positive wire. you will end up welding on site if you change out the selenoid w/o disconnecting the battery.
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Guys ....When I had my new Ultra installed on my 01. They mounted it on the SIDE of the alternator near the power block GM puts in their VYU plow prep trucks.
Seemed a strange place to me ...But never a problem.
My 90/94/97s were mounted by the battery.
Funny tho...The heat sink?transistor? thing they mounted way back on the hood support near the master cylinder.
I have seen others mounted on the rad. support.....................geo
Seemed a strange place to me ...But never a problem.
My 90/94/97s were mounted by the battery.
Funny tho...The heat sink?transistor? thing they mounted way back on the hood support near the master cylinder.
I have seen others mounted on the rad. support.....................geo
My dealer installed the solenoid on the plastic wheel fender inside the engine compartment. Never seen that before but there is alot of room where it is mounted and I would think that plastic would make a good "shock absorber" thus less chance of something coming loose or wear out.
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I always worry that mounting on plastic will cause a crack and ultimately the piece could fall into the moving parts.
It is getting tighter but usually a spot can be found on one of the firewalls. The isolation module or light relays are always up high on the fenderwell and back near the firewall to keep safe.
Of full size trucks I have worked on I think the Chevy's are the tightest. The Dodges seem to have good room (I ahve not worked on the newest Rams). Fords seem to always have a little room for extras. Try finding room under a smaller trucks hood.
What is even worse is trying to do alarms and remote starts. Very little room under the dashes of some vehicles these days. Way to much "stuff."
It is getting tighter but usually a spot can be found on one of the firewalls. The isolation module or light relays are always up high on the fenderwell and back near the firewall to keep safe.
Of full size trucks I have worked on I think the Chevy's are the tightest. The Dodges seem to have good room (I ahve not worked on the newest Rams). Fords seem to always have a little room for extras. Try finding room under a smaller trucks hood.
What is even worse is trying to do alarms and remote starts. Very little room under the dashes of some vehicles these days. Way to much "stuff."
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When mounting the solenoid, does it make any difference how it's mounted? From what I understand, the only way you shouldn't mount it, is upside down.
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New cheve's are easy. Two studs off the fire wall by the master cyl. Ford and Dodge, Inside fender well or the fire wall on drivers side for most of the newer trucks.
As stated above mount it so you can get to it. No matter what plow it fails more than anything else.
Jerre
As stated above mount it so you can get to it. No matter what plow it fails more than anything else.
Jerre
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45 Posts
another newbie question. I know on the winches on my jeep i can NOT use a 'standard' Ford noid. but what about the plow?
i know it is used alot, but not constant like a winch.
i have not looked into this much, yet. but mine was 'used' and worked but i could not get nuts off to clean and replace wire, so out to the back yard i went with wrenches in hand to rob part off of one of the parts jeeps. and it works for now. but will it last a whole season? i plan on puchasing a new one to keep in truck and show wife how to change if it goes out.
thanks
dave
i know it is used alot, but not constant like a winch.
i have not looked into this much, yet. but mine was 'used' and worked but i could not get nuts off to clean and replace wire, so out to the back yard i went with wrenches in hand to rob part off of one of the parts jeeps. and it works for now. but will it last a whole season? i plan on puchasing a new one to keep in truck and show wife how to change if it goes out.
thanks
dave
Also put some grease on the terminals. They rust up quick, and as mentioned above, when you'll need to change it will be in the dark, cold, snow. Make life easy, cary a spare. Even better, if your plow is more than 3-4 of years old, replace it now and save the grief later.
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7,731 Posts
A regular Ford style starter solenoid will not last.I've tried them,they are not meant for continious duty,or the repetitive use.Get the proper solenoid.Make sure it's a good one too,not a cheap aftermarket one.wifeplows said:
To solve the rusty thread problem,use grease (like mentioned above) or anti-sieze.You can also add an extra nut to protect the exposed threads,so they do not rust.The double nut also prevents the connection from loosening up over time.
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