iam in a discussion as with an auto tran. as what is the best gear to use when plowing i say drive high range when needed, they say i should be in low and low please reply as i feel drive and high when you need it. thanks roland
best gear to plow in
roland
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Roland; who is they? I am speaking for myself here & I'd say there are situations I would use low range i.e.; a long push with deep heavy snow. 99.9% of the time I go easy & use high range in my 1/2 ton. [When I plowed with a 3/4 or a 1 ton the same.] I think if your truck is set up right like having good tires, a trans cooler, proper ballast, etc. you don't need low. Interested to see what other guy's do also.
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Hi range, first gear. 
opcorn
Until you need low range.
opcornUntil you need low range.
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Ditto on the high range, low gear, which is another thing I learned from LTS. The only time I use low gear is on the worst driveway I have (friend's grandmother, don't have the heart to tell her no). It's on the curve of a very busy street, and the drive is a short, steep hill which only has room for snow off to the side. I end up back-dragging towards the street, then have to make several pushes to the side to clean up the turn around, etc. By the time I'm done, I end up sideways on the hill and low range makes it easier to avoid spinning/sliding down the hill.
It seems like I remember someone from LTS writing a book about the best plowing techniques but I can't seem to find it. Anyone else remember this?
It seems like I remember someone from LTS writing a book about the best plowing techniques but I can't seem to find it. Anyone else remember this?
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A forward one......opcorn2opcorn2
opcorn2opcorn2
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Way too many variables. My f350 has pretty tall gearing in the axles. I only plow in low range. My f250's have shorter gearing and easily plow in high range. My S10 has short gearing and small tires, high range. You shouldn't have to get into the throttle too hard while plowing, generally. Long pushes, heavy snow, big plows = lower gearing and more throttle. If you feel the truck is working too hard in hi range, use low.
The correct answer is, use what is appropriate for your conditions. Their is a reason for that extra gearing.
Next I suppose "they" are going to say you need a 4wd to plow!
The correct answer is, use what is appropriate for your conditions. Their is a reason for that extra gearing.
Next I suppose "they" are going to say you need a 4wd to plow!
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High range unless I am pushing a lot of snow. Then I will use low if it feels like the truck is working to hard in high.
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always on the other side
I am out numbered here
When a little lazy, I will just plow in high
Then I usually notice how long I am waiting for the truck to move (F or R)
after a stop (yes,.. I actually stop)
and how much more throttle I am using to get the truck to move,..
Then I put 'er in low and all is solved.
Yes, I have to stop and get out of the low range but if feels worth it.
I have seen a reduced fuel use (we dont get many mpg plowing) and I see a lower trans temp -- especially with wet snow and big banks to move
Anyway,.. just another view
tc
I am out numbered here
When a little lazy, I will just plow in high
Then I usually notice how long I am waiting for the truck to move (F or R)
after a stop (yes,.. I actually stop)
and how much more throttle I am using to get the truck to move,..
Then I put 'er in low and all is solved.
Yes, I have to stop and get out of the low range but if feels worth it.
I have seen a reduced fuel use (we dont get many mpg plowing) and I see a lower trans temp -- especially with wet snow and big banks to move
Anyway,.. just another view
tc
This is what I wanted to say when I read the thread title........A forward one......
This is what I do 90%Hi range, first gear.
Until you need low range.
I hope you're plowing roadsHigh range only. I run out of gears in low range.
Stopping completely between shifts is the most important part.
I too have noticed what appears to be reduced fuel usage when plowing my route in lo range. Lo range also makes your alternator much happier, which makes your battery happier, which makes your plow faster, which makes you happier. Now that I joined the [R] to [1] to [R] club, I use lo-range less.
Unless it's just a couple inches of light fluffy stuff I always use low range. No ,it's not as fast but how many drives do you go over 15mph on? Yhe way I see itis the lower mechanical gearing makes the trannys job much easier=less heat and slipage. Just my brains way of thinking.
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Its all common sense, light fluffy snow I use high range, R-D I dont go for that low crap because in D its starting in low and It doesnt get going fast enough to upshift, alot of snow or wet heavy crap I'll use low range and again R-D, also having a tranny temp gauge to watch is a plus
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DAMIT after all these years..........A forward one......
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Its all common sense, light fluffy snow I use high range, R-D I dont go for that low crap because in D its starting in low and It doesnt get going fast enough to upshift, alot of snow or wet heavy crap I'll use low range and again R-D, also having a tranny temp gauge to watch is a plus
Bout the only two posts needed here for parking lot pushers
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Mark, i agree to a point...the breaking point for me is that the convertor lock up point on OEM trucks is so low anyhow, it's really a non issue. My race car convertor flashes/stalls/locks at 5100rpm behind my engine it was built for along with weight of the car, tire size, gearing, etc....I had a different convertor that was built to the same peak tq rpm and specs of the car, but it flashes to 6100rpm....lots more slippage. Luckily the OEM stuff is simplistic since trucks are made to work down low, so they "come in sooner" typically 1500rpm-2200rpm depending on yr, make, model, etc....
I personally have alot of rudy poo sized lots that dont allow me to sustain long runs carrying the speed necessary to maintain a high range 1st gear situation to stay above these rpm's...i'd be flyin. While other larger lots, it's not a problem. So like was mentioned, it just boils down to situation and circumstances. Just like a my race car that gets moving and does work mroe effeicently thanks to higher numercial gear reduction.....less strain on -ESSPECIALLY the convertor because the gearing is making the mechanical advantage to work harder vs allowing the convertor to slip more. My engine would be screaming if i took gear reduction away and installed say, a 3.00 rear gear....same principal with using low range while plowing, it allows the vehicle to do the same work eaiser.
The bonus- since it is in low range it allows the rpms to remained in a higher sustained window which allows the alternator to perform at peak since most dont put out full capacity until 1500rpm anyhow. It also allows full line pressure inside the transmission since the pump is spinning at a higher rate so clutches hold tighter, and like you mentioned your able to get the convertor above it's stall rating/flash point so it couples as close to 1:1 as it can get without a seperate overide switch, which also reduces heat and allows the parts to last longer. IF your lot is large enough you can keep the revs up in high range, it'll be fine. IF your lot is too small and the snow is deeper or heavier than "fluff" switching to low range is a no brainer...maintain pump speed/line pressure/cut down on slippage of the convertor since menchancial gear reduction is doing the brunt of the work already. PLUS i like the added control with my right foot since the truck is very sensative to it's input when cutting in close to objects, stacking, etc...but i'm not out to break speed records, i just want my junk to last to increase profits
I personally have alot of rudy poo sized lots that dont allow me to sustain long runs carrying the speed necessary to maintain a high range 1st gear situation to stay above these rpm's...i'd be flyin. While other larger lots, it's not a problem. So like was mentioned, it just boils down to situation and circumstances. Just like a my race car that gets moving and does work mroe effeicently thanks to higher numercial gear reduction.....less strain on -ESSPECIALLY the convertor because the gearing is making the mechanical advantage to work harder vs allowing the convertor to slip more. My engine would be screaming if i took gear reduction away and installed say, a 3.00 rear gear....same principal with using low range while plowing, it allows the vehicle to do the same work eaiser.
The bonus- since it is in low range it allows the rpms to remained in a higher sustained window which allows the alternator to perform at peak since most dont put out full capacity until 1500rpm anyhow. It also allows full line pressure inside the transmission since the pump is spinning at a higher rate so clutches hold tighter, and like you mentioned your able to get the convertor above it's stall rating/flash point so it couples as close to 1:1 as it can get without a seperate overide switch, which also reduces heat and allows the parts to last longer. IF your lot is large enough you can keep the revs up in high range, it'll be fine. IF your lot is too small and the snow is deeper or heavier than "fluff" switching to low range is a no brainer...maintain pump speed/line pressure/cut down on slippage of the convertor since menchancial gear reduction is doing the brunt of the work already. PLUS i like the added control with my right foot since the truck is very sensative to it's input when cutting in close to objects, stacking, etc...but i'm not out to break speed records, i just want my junk to last to increase profits
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Maybe to help others, because I know I am getting confused, but maybe we can all use the same terminology:
Range--4 hi or 4 lo
Gears--gear shift selector, i.e. 1, 2, 3, 4\OD and R.
Unless I am totally clueless, some of you are using gear\range interchangeably.
Range--4 hi or 4 lo
Gears--gear shift selector, i.e. 1, 2, 3, 4\OD and R.
Unless I am totally clueless, some of you are using gear\range interchangeably.
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I find in both my trucks-doing parking lots I am usually in 2wd if its a small amount of light fluffy stuff and in 1st gear unless I have a loooooong pass then I will manually upshift. If I even sense the slightest bit of tire slippage the lever gets pulled into 4wd hi range-same selection of gears on the trans.4wd low range used when stacking,large load out front,I have one lot that is on an incline so I find I use low range here more than anyplace else.
For driveways-almost always in 4wd hi range-1st gear on the trans. I have 2 steep tight driveways that I use 4wd low range almost always-helps me control the speed with my right foot and the truck doesn't work as hard. I also have trans temp gauges in both trucks-temps rarely see 185 degrees. Regular fluid-stock trans coolers. I have 80 amp alternators in both trucks with good batteries. But I also don't have a ton of strobes and accessory's either. Just my 2 cents.
For driveways-almost always in 4wd hi range-1st gear on the trans. I have 2 steep tight driveways that I use 4wd low range almost always-helps me control the speed with my right foot and the truck doesn't work as hard. I also have trans temp gauges in both trucks-temps rarely see 185 degrees. Regular fluid-stock trans coolers. I have 80 amp alternators in both trucks with good batteries. But I also don't have a ton of strobes and accessory's either. Just my 2 cents.
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If you use a truck with an automatic,a trans temp guage goes a long way in determining what gear to plow in.I install trans temp guages on all my plow trucks,and after using the guage a while,you can tell by the trans temp readings if your should be in low range..trans temps will skyrocket if your pushing too hard in high range,since you need a lot of power,high range puts more strain on the convertor,and the load is high the torque convertor "sheers" the fluid a lot more.Under these conditions it is best to drop to low range,and use more rpm,and gearing to do the work,however in light snow or with low axle gears,and big blocks,and diesels especially,high range is usually the way to go.The only way to tell is experiementation and a trans temp guage.Every truck is different.
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