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JD PLOWER

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Well the 8 year old plow had been fine for the past several years except for some structural issues that have been addressed through welding or part replacements but after this last storm something happened to the wings. They work fine in straight blade mode but they will not work in scoop or vee mode. They do also work but VERY slowly in wing modes. I have drained the fluid and rreplced with new fluid twice and I have cracked all the lines to bleed the air out and it still will not work other than straight mode and the wings are still "spongy" (when elevated I can move them a few inches back and forth). I called a fisher dealer that said "it sounds like a bad ground"? Does that sound like a bad ground to anyone here? I checked all the grounds on the plow incliding the attachments on the solenoid, and the wiring to the valves and everything seems to be fine. In short, (no pun intended) are there some simple fixes for this that anyone might know?

Btw can some one please make the title MM1? Thanks.
 
Jeff,

I have had the same issue with my Fisher V on the 2500 three or four times in the past and it has always turned out to be one of the plugs at the grill needing a little attention. A little cleaning with some electrical contact cleaner and a good shot of dielectric grease has always taken care of it for me. If that does not work for you, you are welcome to spin by my shop and try my Fishstick to see if that is the answer.
 
Well the 8 year old plow had been fine for the past several years except for some structural issues that have been addressed through welding or part replacements but after this last storm something happened to the wings. They work fine in straight blade mode but they will not work in scoop or vee mode. They do also work but VERY slowly in wing modes. I have drained the fluid and rreplced with new fluid twice and I have cracked all the lines to bleed the air out and it still will not work other than straight mode and the wings are still "spongy" (when elevated I can move them a few inches back and forth). I called a fisher dealer that said "it sounds like a bad ground"? Does that sound like a bad ground to anyone here? I checked all the grounds on the plow incliding the attachments on the solenoid, and the wiring to the valves and everything seems to be fine. In short, (no pun intended) are there some simple fixes for this that anyone might know?

Btw can some one please make the title MM1? Thanks.

Did you find out what the problem was yet?
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Did you find out what the problem was yet?
No unfortunately I haven’t had any time to really tear into the guts of the pump. I have tried removing the connections and I have cleaned them and added new grease but still nothing. i have checked all the electrical connections that I can find and cleaned the grounds but this hasn't helped. I am leaning towards an internal pump problem for two reasons, one, when my controller had problems in the past the plow just stopped working all together and two, it runs but very slowly so I know the signal is getting from the controller to the pump but from there it just doesn’t seem to have any power to function properly.

Jeff thanks for the offer. I may take you up on that sometime soon if I can't figure this one out. The dealers I have called have tried to offer solutions but beyond things like "check the fluid" or "it must be a ground" (all things I have done) they haven't helped all that much.

Thanks OSC and Jeff for the help any other suggestions I'm all ears.
 
Sounds like one of the valves are gone. They are easy to replace , cost about 70 dollars for one. Have to ask fisher dealer which valve is the one for the vee and scoop mode. Takes about 5 min to change. They are under the plastic covers. There is a total of six of them. To change just pull off the magnet and unscrew the valve and replace. You will lose some fluid. Wish I could tell you witch valve it was.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Dumptrucker I too suspect its a valve but I have some questions about valves maybe you could answer? Like does the valve need to be adjusted or does it come precalibrated from the factory? Does only one valve control the scoop function and the VEE function? If you or anyone else has this info it would be greatly appreciated. I have tried the factory manual but it doesn't answer much about how the valve comes from the factory. It does tell you how to recalibrate but thats not something I really want to do since I might ruin a valve or something else if I do it wrong. :eek:
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Well almost :mad: I decided to have the pros look at it since I wasn't getting anywhere so i brought it up to JC Madigan in Harvard Mass. Well after having paid for 4 cartridges, two coils, a motor and relay and possibly a partridge in pare tree, it still isn't done. I went to try it out and it still didn't work in scoop mode.:headwall So they still have it and as of ten minutes ago they also don't know when it will be done. Only had to drive about 70 miles to find this out. :rolleyes:

I wanted to replace it this year but having just paid 5g for a new Vplow for another truck I really don't have the money too replace it but as it turns out I should have anyway, since it's costing about as much as half a new one to replace all the worn parts. The other thing with buying new is it doesn't guarantee anything since the new v plow had a bad controller and missed two storms because of it. Stuff like this makes me want to chuck it all in the garbage and let somebody else deal with this BS.

What really pissed me off this week was finding some old invoices a few days ago from 1988 and realizing I was making more twenty years ago than I am now :mad:
 
Has anyone checked the pump pressure on this?How fast does it lift?
Actually....MM1 you say...I'll bet your angle cylinders have the old 2 piece seals in them on the pistons at the end,they were notorious for ripping,if they blew completely you would have these issues,take the gland nut off and pull the rod out and check those,the new ones are a one seal design,i have changed dozens of these.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I was trying to forget about all this :wink

I picked up the truck a day after my last post and during the next storm on the 14th the driver called me to tell me the plow quit about two hours in. Over $1100 after my trip out west.

I tried the spare remote for the plow but no dice. So that truck became the defacto command vehicle and I used it to shuttle the shovelers around. I didn't even look at it for a few days out of frustration and disgust and when I finally did I noticed a loose conection on the battery terminal, a ground...(for the irony in all this check out the first post...:fuming )

So far so good since then but we have had exactly 1.2" of snow since then so I'll see how it holds up. Honestly I'm almost ready for spring.
 
fisher plow manual link from OSCLandscaping

Wow, that link is really helpful! And thanks dumptrucker for telling us a valve is a do-able job!

I'm a good driver but a lousy mechanic. I was about to go through the time, gas, and expense of taking in my '04 ezyV (I go out of state) for a sticky valve but you guys have inspired me to at least look at it first.

Happened in my '02 ezV two years ago (wing would not always lock or would drift slowly out of position when raised). The shop cleaned the valve and has been fine ever since. Good shop, but longish drive.

Thanks again, I love this site!
 
hydraulic valve cleaning

Wow, that link is really helpful! And thanks dumptrucker for telling us a valve is a do-able job!

I'm a good driver but a lousy mechanic. I was about to go through the time, gas, and expense of taking in my '04 ezyV (I go out of state) for a sticky valve but you guys have inspired me to at least look at it first.
Reporting back, I used the link from OSCLandscaping for diagrams of the valve internals. My right wing would lock, then drift back out of position. I followed the line from the push (primary) end of the double acting cylinder on the right side back to the manifold. I checked that relief valve first. I started by screwing it all the way in as I counted and wrote down the number of turns. When I pulled the valve stem, right on the valve seat was a nice clean shiny flake of metal! Wow, the problem found right off the bat! I then needed a way to lift the internals vertically out. I took a 6mm allen wrench and stroked it (one direction only) with a pickup magnet to magnetize it. I lowered it to the ball bearing in the valve and lifted slowly. Out came the ball and the spring spacer. Next try the spring. I tried again for metal flakes but nothing. I should have checked but didn't, I don't know if the flake was magnetic.

I knew I could quit right there but decided to check five more valves just in case the metal flakes were throughout the system. The secondary relief valve on the right side had some blackish film I could wipe off and some air trapped under it (from leak?) but the other reliefs were clean. I checked two solenoid valves as well. They looked like a computer clean room inside and the spools moved freely in the valve body. I decided I was doing more harm than good so I stopped.

While looking closely at the pump I noticed the ground looked dirty (see first and JD's last post). It's on the backside, out of sight out of mind. Remove, wire brush all, load up with dielectric grease, same on the postive wire. Put everything back together and viola! Perfect function with no travel expense, drop off, return, or $$$.

Thank you JD PLOWER for being man enough to tell us that it turned out to be a grounding problem. Hard to admit but very useful for others to know. It's not just the savings in time and $$$, it's knowing more about the equipment so you can deal with it at 2AM instead of feeling helpless.:)
 
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