With all the talk about converting the gas engine V boxes to electric,I figured it was time to post the pictures I have of a friends spreader setup. I do not have the small details of this conversion,but I can ask him if someone needs detailed info. Honestly the pictures are all you really need. He converted 4 or 5 of his gas spreaders over,and he said he will never use gas motors again.All if his use the same motor so he can keep one spare,and be set no matter which one goes down. The motor itself is a dayton 6ML02,and it is 1/2 hp,and draws 39 amps, they do make a 3/4 Hp unit 6ML04, and 6ML06 for the 1HP units, but you'd need to run serious cables since its full load amps are 60 amps to 80 amps draw. Heres the pics I have,I think it looks factory and he did a great job,on the conversion, i dont think he keeps it all that clean or corrosion free in there though.
John DiMartino
Fisher V box electric motor conversion
With all the talk about converting the gas engine V boxes to electric,I figured it was time to post the pictures I have of a friends spreader setup. I do not have the small details of this conversion,but I can ask him if someone needs detailed info. Honestly the pictures are all you really need. He converted 4 or 5 of his gas spreaders over,and he said he will never use gas motors again.All if his use the same motor so he can keep one spare,and be set no matter which one goes down. The motor itself is a dayton 6ML02,and it is 1/2 hp,and draws 39 amps, they do make a 3/4 Hp unit 6ML04, and 6ML06 for the 1HP units, but you'd need to run serious cables since its full load amps are 60 amps to 80 amps draw. Heres the pics I have,I think it looks factory and he did a great job,on the conversion, i dont think he keeps it all that clean or corrosion free in there though.
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Here is the last one I have. It isnt clear,but i was able to get the motor numbers off of it. Hes been using these for a few yrs now,and has had no problems,and let me tell you ,he works his equipment, he heaps that spreader way up,and it spreads it out no problem,
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Dino,he removed the clutch,and put an adapter on it.hes got 4 or 5 ,all set up the same,any one can go in any truck.
Since it is on a 20:1 gear box which is about standard on most gas driven spreader, how many teeth are on each sprocket? Where did he get the parts. All of them look as if they are normal stock somewhere.
Might as well get the part numbers please.
What gauge wire did he run?
Just on/off switch?
Might as well get the part numbers please.
What gauge wire did he run?
Just on/off switch?
It would definitely need a high amp solenoid. Probably 75 or 100 amp. A starter solenoid would be perfect, as well as a 100 amp circut breaker. Thats a lot of amperage there, with salt and corrosion, its bound to have some issues eventually, make sure it's well protected.
As for chain and spindles etc..., any mill supplier should have it. I've used atlantic bearing here. A buddy of mine works there and found a lot of simpler ways to rebuild my tailgate sander.
The # of teeth would be handy, though, as that is a huge variable. Is he happy with his speed and throw rate? Or would he speed it up/slow it down? I do a lot of narrow driveways, so if I convert my old one I may slow down the spinner a little.
Thanks for the info!
As for chain and spindles etc..., any mill supplier should have it. I've used atlantic bearing here. A buddy of mine works there and found a lot of simpler ways to rebuild my tailgate sander.
The # of teeth would be handy, though, as that is a huge variable. Is he happy with his speed and throw rate? Or would he speed it up/slow it down? I do a lot of narrow driveways, so if I convert my old one I may slow down the spinner a little.
Thanks for the info!
I'd rather spend 4 or 500 converting to 12v than 400 for a gas engine that won't start or needs gas and constant maint.
That 12 v Downeaster that I bought has sold me on electric. It really is the only way to go. It had unbelievable torque and always starts.
That 12 v Downeaster that I bought has sold me on electric. It really is the only way to go. It had unbelievable torque and always starts.
We scrap Dayton and Baldor motors like that often at work. When I get one thats rebuildable I will start saving them and notify you guys if you are interested........
Jay
Jay
The motor is under 300 bucks,I think the whole thign could be done for 500-600 depending on what you have laying around for wire,and connectors.
You guys have never had any problems with the electric motors? I don't have experience with one, but I would think corrosion would be harsh on the internal components.
Here is some of my experience with electric spreaders.
The smith units use a 1/3 hp leeson motor, I have had 1 go bad, and we replaced it with a 1/2 hp leeson. Motor was around 250.00 and solenoid and 6-8 gauge wiring with connectors will be under 50.00. You will need a 12v switch in cab, and some 14 gauge to trigger solenoid. Not sure what you would need for tooth count on the conversion sprockets, but they should be under 75.00 for them.
Amps really are quite low, around 35 at start up and under 30 once at speed. Any starter or high end plow solenoid will work. Jerre used a blizzard relay on our 06 to trigger the spreader.
Corrosion in the motor is rare, the case gets of the motor gets rusty or if aluminum it will have some surface corrosion, but with fluid film around that has been eliminated.
For brands of real v boxes that have electric option, I know of Smith, downeaster, snowway.
The smith units use a 1/3 hp leeson motor, I have had 1 go bad, and we replaced it with a 1/2 hp leeson. Motor was around 250.00 and solenoid and 6-8 gauge wiring with connectors will be under 50.00. You will need a 12v switch in cab, and some 14 gauge to trigger solenoid. Not sure what you would need for tooth count on the conversion sprockets, but they should be under 75.00 for them.
Amps really are quite low, around 35 at start up and under 30 once at speed. Any starter or high end plow solenoid will work. Jerre used a blizzard relay on our 06 to trigger the spreader.
Corrosion in the motor is rare, the case gets of the motor gets rusty or if aluminum it will have some surface corrosion, but with fluid film around that has been eliminated.
For brands of real v boxes that have electric option, I know of Smith, downeaster, snowway.
Can one of those variable speed "boxes" be used in a set up like this to controls the spinner speed? Does using one of those lead to premature motor failure??
I dont think id try a variable speed controller.To many amps, IMO it to work correctly.I guess you could try it,i would keep it simple and cheap/relaible ,use a small switch triggering an underr hood HD soleniod.
So with this set up it is either full ob or full off? the only way to control the width of the spread pass is through deflectors?
So, if the electrics are running 1/3 to 1/2 hp, why do the gassers come with 8-12hp?
What speed are these motors running at, 1800rpm?
What speed are these motors running at, 1800rpm?
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1613135706&ccitem=
Here's the motor at Grainger. $292.00
Motor,1/2 HP,12 Vdc
Permanent Magnet DC Totally Enclosed Non-Ventilated Motor, HP 1/2, RPM 1800, Armature DC Voltage 12 VDC, NEMA Frame 56C, Mounting Face/Base, Service Factor 1.00, Bearings Ball, Full Load Amps at Nameplate Volts 39.0, Thermal Protection None
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According to the specs you can use a speed controller.....
~Chuck
Here's the motor at Grainger. $292.00
Motor,1/2 HP,12 Vdc
Permanent Magnet DC Totally Enclosed Non-Ventilated Motor, HP 1/2, RPM 1800, Armature DC Voltage 12 VDC, NEMA Frame 56C, Mounting Face/Base, Service Factor 1.00, Bearings Ball, Full Load Amps at Nameplate Volts 39.0, Thermal Protection None
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According to the specs you can use a speed controller.....
~Chuck
but seeing how the gas motor is shot i'll probably still go for it.I'll try to answer some of these questions. I don't have any pics yet, but I'll get some. I have converted two salters to electric. The first one was a gas motor and the second was hydraulic.
The smaller unit was gas powered, 1.5cu/yd. - (2.5cu/yd with top extensions that I origionally ran - when this unit was on the dually. It is now on a 2500srw, therefore the extensions have been removed). This unit got the same motor that chuck posted - but only 1/3HP. Yes, the origional gas motor was 12HP. Obviously gas engine HP and electric motor HP are not equal. And yes, they run at 1800rpm. It is wired with 8 guage. I don't think that just any solenoid will work because they are not made to stay on for an extended period of time. I run a constant duty solenoid, you can get them right at napa. Yes, it has a 20:1 gear box. I have mine geared with a 12 tooth sprocket on the motor, and 48teeth on the gearbox. It took a few tries to get the gearing correct, and now I have it right where I want it. This unit has been used for 3 seasons now. The 1/3HP has no problem. I have had no corrosion related breakdowns. I have replaced one solonoid and it always gets new chains each season. This unit has performed perfectly since I made it electric.
Total cost - just under $400 bucks.
Throwing the gas engine in the dumpster - priceless.
The second unit I just did at the start of this season. The spreader started out as a 4cu/yd airflow - full hydraulic. It was too wide at the top & too tall to fit in a pickup. I cut it down so that it fits in the dually nicely. It now holds 3cu/yd heaped up. This unit has a 2ft wide conveyer and a 40:1 gearbox. I used the same 1/2hp motor that chuck posted above with the same gearing as on the above spreader. When the spreader is real full, the motor lugs down and spins much slower than it should until she lightens up the load a little. I would like to switch to a 3/4hp motor or gear it down even more due to this. Other than that - it works perfectly, just as the other. It is real nice if you really want to lay the salt heavy, due to the 2ft conveyer. I'm not sure on the spinner gearing,because on this unit I made the spinner belt driven. I really like this unit, very heavy duty compared to the pickup units available.
I'll try to post some pics.
On a side note - I recently took the dually over the scales. She was not quite as full as usual, but close. - 16,500# full of fuel/blizzard on.
The smaller unit was gas powered, 1.5cu/yd. - (2.5cu/yd with top extensions that I origionally ran - when this unit was on the dually. It is now on a 2500srw, therefore the extensions have been removed). This unit got the same motor that chuck posted - but only 1/3HP. Yes, the origional gas motor was 12HP. Obviously gas engine HP and electric motor HP are not equal. And yes, they run at 1800rpm. It is wired with 8 guage. I don't think that just any solenoid will work because they are not made to stay on for an extended period of time. I run a constant duty solenoid, you can get them right at napa. Yes, it has a 20:1 gear box. I have mine geared with a 12 tooth sprocket on the motor, and 48teeth on the gearbox. It took a few tries to get the gearing correct, and now I have it right where I want it. This unit has been used for 3 seasons now. The 1/3HP has no problem. I have had no corrosion related breakdowns. I have replaced one solonoid and it always gets new chains each season. This unit has performed perfectly since I made it electric.
Total cost - just under $400 bucks.
Throwing the gas engine in the dumpster - priceless.
The second unit I just did at the start of this season. The spreader started out as a 4cu/yd airflow - full hydraulic. It was too wide at the top & too tall to fit in a pickup. I cut it down so that it fits in the dually nicely. It now holds 3cu/yd heaped up. This unit has a 2ft wide conveyer and a 40:1 gearbox. I used the same 1/2hp motor that chuck posted above with the same gearing as on the above spreader. When the spreader is real full, the motor lugs down and spins much slower than it should until she lightens up the load a little. I would like to switch to a 3/4hp motor or gear it down even more due to this. Other than that - it works perfectly, just as the other. It is real nice if you really want to lay the salt heavy, due to the 2ft conveyer. I'm not sure on the spinner gearing,because on this unit I made the spinner belt driven. I really like this unit, very heavy duty compared to the pickup units available.
I'll try to post some pics.
On a side note - I recently took the dually over the scales. She was not quite as full as usual, but close. - 16,500# full of fuel/blizzard on.
One more thing - I tried using a variable speed controller off of a buyers tailgate spreader. We tried it with the spreader empty, as I had my doubts. It would not start the motor from a stop, even empty. If we got it going by hand, it would then work ok, but you stopped it, it wouldn't get it going again.
Matt
Matt
I always had to use the "burst" to get it going on the Meyers....
I didn't look at pricing, but Grainger has the speed controllers too. Not sure what they look like.
~Chuck
I didn't look at pricing, but Grainger has the speed controllers too. Not sure what they look like.
~Chuck
Motor,3/4 HP,12 Vdc $322.75Matthew Bowman said:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1613135719
Also from the looks of it, the motor is a direct bolt on pattern as the gas engine.
Does everyone have that many problems with the gas vboxes? We have a 10' Fisher with the honda and it has been very trouble free (knock on wood). Can the controler in the cab be used with this converstion so the sand/salt can be feathered out differently? Does the electric motor draw alot of power? Just curious to see if this is a more bulletproof way?
stuvecorp
If your happy with the honda than I would suggest just keeping it the way it is until you start having problems. I had many troubles running gas power, and I know many others have as well. I absolutly love the way the electric units perform and would never consider a gas powered v-box ever again. This is definatly a more bullet proof way to run a v-box. I have not had a single problem with these electric powered units, and the first one has been in service for 3 seasons now.
Yes they draw quite a bit of juice, but I've never had a problem with the truck keeping up. Both of my electric v-box trucks have blizzard 810's and lots of lights. I have no trouble running all lights on, salter & moving the plow at the same time.
As for the controler in the cab, all you need for electric is a 2 position toggle switch. On or off are your choices. I have mine wired on a long cord that you hold in your hand. It works very nice for spot treatments.
Matt
If your happy with the honda than I would suggest just keeping it the way it is until you start having problems. I had many troubles running gas power, and I know many others have as well. I absolutly love the way the electric units perform and would never consider a gas powered v-box ever again. This is definatly a more bullet proof way to run a v-box. I have not had a single problem with these electric powered units, and the first one has been in service for 3 seasons now.
Yes they draw quite a bit of juice, but I've never had a problem with the truck keeping up. Both of my electric v-box trucks have blizzard 810's and lots of lights. I have no trouble running all lights on, salter & moving the plow at the same time.
As for the controler in the cab, all you need for electric is a 2 position toggle switch. On or off are your choices. I have mine wired on a long cord that you hold in your hand. It works very nice for spot treatments.
Matt
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