With all the talk about converting the gas engine V boxes to electric,I figured it was time to post the pictures I have of a friends spreader setup. I do not have the small details of this conversion,but I can ask him if someone needs detailed info. Honestly the pictures are all you really need. He converted 4 or 5 of his gas spreaders over,and he said he will never use gas motors again.All if his use the same motor so he can keep one spare,and be set no matter which one goes down. The motor itself is a dayton 6ML02,and it is 1/2 hp,and draws 39 amps, they do make a 3/4 Hp unit 6ML04, and 6ML06 for the 1HP units, but you'd need to run serious cables since its full load amps are 60 amps to 80 amps draw. Heres the pics I have,I think it looks factory and he did a great job,on the conversion, i dont think he keeps it all that clean or corrosion free in there though.
Fisher V box electric motor conversion
John DiMartino
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With all the talk about converting the gas engine V boxes to electric,I figured it was time to post the pictures I have of a friends spreader setup. I do not have the small details of this conversion,but I can ask him if someone needs detailed info. Honestly the pictures are all you really need. He converted 4 or 5 of his gas spreaders over,and he said he will never use gas motors again.All if his use the same motor so he can keep one spare,and be set no matter which one goes down. The motor itself is a dayton 6ML02,and it is 1/2 hp,and draws 39 amps, they do make a 3/4 Hp unit 6ML04, and 6ML06 for the 1HP units, but you'd need to run serious cables since its full load amps are 60 amps to 80 amps draw. Heres the pics I have,I think it looks factory and he did a great job,on the conversion, i dont think he keeps it all that clean or corrosion free in there though.
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Here is the last one I have. It isnt clear,but i was able to get the motor numbers off of it. Hes been using these for a few yrs now,and has had no problems,and let me tell you ,he works his equipment, he heaps that spreader way up,and it spreads it out no problem,
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John
Is the electric clutch still operatable, and if so, does it come on with the electric motor, or does he start the electric motor, and then engage the clutch?
Is the electric clutch still operatable, and if so, does it come on with the electric motor, or does he start the electric motor, and then engage the clutch?
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Looks as if it was removed and a adaptor/spindel was added
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Dino,he removed the clutch,and put an adapter on it.hes got 4 or 5 ,all set up the same,any one can go in any truck.
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Since it is on a 20:1 gear box which is about standard on most gas driven spreader, how many teeth are on each sprocket? Where did he get the parts. All of them look as if they are normal stock somewhere.
Might as well get the part numbers please.
What gauge wire did he run?
Just on/off switch?
Might as well get the part numbers please.
What gauge wire did he run?
Just on/off switch?
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5,479 Posts
It would definitely need a high amp solenoid. Probably 75 or 100 amp. A starter solenoid would be perfect, as well as a 100 amp circut breaker. Thats a lot of amperage there, with salt and corrosion, its bound to have some issues eventually, make sure it's well protected.
As for chain and spindles etc..., any mill supplier should have it. I've used atlantic bearing here. A buddy of mine works there and found a lot of simpler ways to rebuild my tailgate sander.
The # of teeth would be handy, though, as that is a huge variable. Is he happy with his speed and throw rate? Or would he speed it up/slow it down? I do a lot of narrow driveways, so if I convert my old one I may slow down the spinner a little.
Thanks for the info!
As for chain and spindles etc..., any mill supplier should have it. I've used atlantic bearing here. A buddy of mine works there and found a lot of simpler ways to rebuild my tailgate sander.
The # of teeth would be handy, though, as that is a huge variable. Is he happy with his speed and throw rate? Or would he speed it up/slow it down? I do a lot of narrow driveways, so if I convert my old one I may slow down the spinner a little.
Thanks for the info!
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I'd rather spend 4 or 500 converting to 12v than 400 for a gas engine that won't start or needs gas and constant maint.
That 12 v Downeaster that I bought has sold me on electric. It really is the only way to go. It had unbelievable torque and always starts.
That 12 v Downeaster that I bought has sold me on electric. It really is the only way to go. It had unbelievable torque and always starts.
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5,878 Posts
We scrap Dayton and Baldor motors like that often at work. When I get one thats rebuildable I will start saving them and notify you guys if you are interested........
Jay
Jay
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The motor is under 300 bucks,I think the whole thign could be done for 500-600 depending on what you have laying around for wire,and connectors.
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Here is some of my experience with electric spreaders.
The smith units use a 1/3 hp leeson motor, I have had 1 go bad, and we replaced it with a 1/2 hp leeson. Motor was around 250.00 and solenoid and 6-8 gauge wiring with connectors will be under 50.00. You will need a 12v switch in cab, and some 14 gauge to trigger solenoid. Not sure what you would need for tooth count on the conversion sprockets, but they should be under 75.00 for them.
Amps really are quite low, around 35 at start up and under 30 once at speed. Any starter or high end plow solenoid will work. Jerre used a blizzard relay on our 06 to trigger the spreader.
Corrosion in the motor is rare, the case gets of the motor gets rusty or if aluminum it will have some surface corrosion, but with fluid film around that has been eliminated.
For brands of real v boxes that have electric option, I know of Smith, downeaster, snowway.
The smith units use a 1/3 hp leeson motor, I have had 1 go bad, and we replaced it with a 1/2 hp leeson. Motor was around 250.00 and solenoid and 6-8 gauge wiring with connectors will be under 50.00. You will need a 12v switch in cab, and some 14 gauge to trigger solenoid. Not sure what you would need for tooth count on the conversion sprockets, but they should be under 75.00 for them.
Amps really are quite low, around 35 at start up and under 30 once at speed. Any starter or high end plow solenoid will work. Jerre used a blizzard relay on our 06 to trigger the spreader.
Corrosion in the motor is rare, the case gets of the motor gets rusty or if aluminum it will have some surface corrosion, but with fluid film around that has been eliminated.
For brands of real v boxes that have electric option, I know of Smith, downeaster, snowway.
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I dont think id try a variable speed controller.To many amps, IMO it to work correctly.I guess you could try it,i would keep it simple and cheap/relaible ,use a small switch triggering an underr hood HD soleniod.
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So, if the electrics are running 1/3 to 1/2 hp, why do the gassers come with 8-12hp?
What speed are these motors running at, 1800rpm?
What speed are these motors running at, 1800rpm?
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http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1613135706&ccitem=
Here's the motor at Grainger. $292.00
Motor,1/2 HP,12 Vdc
Permanent Magnet DC Totally Enclosed Non-Ventilated Motor, HP 1/2, RPM 1800, Armature DC Voltage 12 VDC, NEMA Frame 56C, Mounting Face/Base, Service Factor 1.00, Bearings Ball, Full Load Amps at Nameplate Volts 39.0, Thermal Protection None
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According to the specs you can use a speed controller.....
~Chuck
Here's the motor at Grainger. $292.00
Motor,1/2 HP,12 Vdc
Permanent Magnet DC Totally Enclosed Non-Ventilated Motor, HP 1/2, RPM 1800, Armature DC Voltage 12 VDC, NEMA Frame 56C, Mounting Face/Base, Service Factor 1.00, Bearings Ball, Full Load Amps at Nameplate Volts 39.0, Thermal Protection None
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According to the specs you can use a speed controller.....
~Chuck
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