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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, as you will see on this page (below) I am not a fabricator although I thought about playing one on TV :shades

I have a 7' Ploy blade Curtis home pro plow and I want to mount a deflector on it. Curtis does not make one so I’m on my own. Mainebob hooked me up with 7' of 12" tall rubber belting, now I need to see if my plan is going to work. If you have time check out this page and let me know what you think. I hate to take a drill to my new plow without some reassurance :rolleyes:

No laughter.. please :D

THANKS!

-Henri

http://home.earthlink.net/~hbrady77/plow/deflector.htm
 

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Sheet metal screws and the thin metal will not cut it,the snow will pull them out.That tube is probably pretty thin,so not a lot of meat to "tap" for threads.The blade doesn't seem to have a lot of curvature,so the snow will build up and put pressure on the deflector.The wind when driving down the road will also try to lift it.

I would use a beefier piece of metal to hold it down,like 1" wide flatstock,3/16" or so thick.Attach it to the top tube using 8 5/16" bolts (1 every foot) that go all the way through the top tube,with a washer and locknut on the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Chris. I think you hit the nail on the head... sure would have been nasty to have that deflector rip off and land on my windshield at 50mph! :burnout
 

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With such little area to work with and not much fabrication knowlage, take all this too a welder and have them fab something up for you to mount it with.

I am thinking something like a piece of angle iron off the tube, and weld it to the tube. Make the mount for the rubber flap 90° to the blade surface. Then bolt the rubber to the angle iroon.
 

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If I were you I would weld a piece of angle iron on the top round bar. And bolt the deflector into that. Anything else would not hold up. E mail me if you have any problems.
 

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you can also use a piece of flat stock with each end bent at 90 degrees. Put the bent ends in place of your marking whips, then replace whips using longer 3/8 bolts in same holes. replace whips. This way, your bolted to each end and completely go over the round mold board pipe and not touch it. To this flat stock, drill, bolt on the rubber conveyor belt. If it won't work, at lest Curtiss can't claim you weakened the original structure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks all! I just called my local welder and he's going to mount something tomorrow. I'll post some pics when it's all done :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just to confirm... I want this angled down, right? Seems like everyone uses a different angle. My plow is not very tall so the welder in concerned that if I angle it down too much I may have problems. I was thinking of going straight out. Thoughts? The blade is 24" high.

-Henri
 

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eeeewww. No offense but I am not crazy about that tubing. My concerns... If you decide to weld directly to the plow: Overheating will definitely burn right through that stuff. If it does come off down the road, it would have to be grinded down, and rewelded. I think this would weaken the steel.

My .02, would be to use long bolts and go through both sides of the tube and secure from the back. One thing I would to is use some type of silicone around the bolt holes to ensure water does not get inside. Water just sitting in there would eventually rust it out. :cool:
 

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I think I would take two pieces of 3/16"x1" Flat stock, and sandwitch the rubber, then drill the holes perpendicular to the blade surface. It will not weaken the tubular support, at least not noticably. I don't even think it supports much, the main impact is absorbed by the vertical ribs and the area where the quadrant bolts to. You should be just fine, and you can save on the welding cost. I'd be afraid that the welding would weaken it more than the bolts, besides that, you are giving it a longer moment arm, which would want to break the angle and deflector off the plow... just my $.02
 

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That's exactly what I was thinking John,it just comes out so much better when it's in a picture,than trying to describe it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
:headwall Shoot ! I like that idea John but the bar is already welded on. I guess I'll have to try it and see, thanks for the drawing!

-Henri
 

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Yes John, that's exactly how I am talking about doing it. The only thing I would do is lose the flat stock in the back so it contours the tubing. Also the reason why I said silicone the bolts or holes so that water doesn't collect and sit in the tube. The picture does do it justice. Going through both sides like that, and bolting the backs. Nice drawing. :cool:
 

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The only thing I would be concerned about is overtightening the bolts and squeezing the tubing, I would use some nylock nuts so you don't need to make it real tight and not have to worry about it coming off.
 
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