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Discussion Starter #1
2 plow runs 2 brand new motor solenoids. It's sort of getting stupid. I know exactly what is going on when the plow stops moving and it only takes 5 min. to change the stupid thing,,so it's not costing me major downtime except for when I forget my tools :)

I'm running a Sno-Way lobo. Anyone have a clue to what could be causing this to happen ?? It's mounted next to the master cylinder,,on the inner fender so it's not getting wet. Only thing i'm thinking is it may need to be grounded ??? My inner fenders are plastic. Also there is a resisitor or fuse block (sno-way part) of some sort about 2"x2" mounted before the solenoid in the main hot wire. I'm just lost and nobody around here has an answer for me.

Thanks,
Keith
 

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If if I understand you are burning up motor relays! Check two things! You could have a bad ground on the relay or a bad ground on motor! You have to run a ground wire to the casing of your relay are its not going to work right! A bad ground to motor will run you amps up! I have also have found feed wires to the motor to be shorting to ground part time will burn out relays!
 

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Your probably rotating or overtightening the little primary side nuts.

If the studs turn at all,they will break the internal connection.I just had the same problem with my Snoway when reassembling the wiring.
 

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The solenoid has two big posts for the power cables and two small posts for the trigger circuit. There's a wire in the harness with a ring terminal sized to fit one of those small posts. There should be a loose wire with a ring terminal on one end that will fit the other smallpost on the solenoid. The other end of that wire has a ring terminal sized to fit a bolt type battery post, on the order of 3/8". That wire should be connected to the battery "-" terminal. As far as the solenoid itself needing to be grounded, it doesn't.

The 2" square plastic box is about a 150 amp circuit breaker.

I'm assuming the relay is a black plastic housing somewhat taller than it is wide with the two main terminals side by side on the highest part and the trigger terminals very close to the base. If it's not the Sno-Way part it migt not be rated for continuous duty at the current loads the plow draws. We replaced one of ours with a starter solenoid that was not rated for continuous duty. It fried in short order but got us by long enough to finish what needed doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alan,, I have been using western (heavy duty same one as my uni-mount )solenoids as they look identical to the sno-way ones.
Maybe thats the problem ?? I'll go pick up a sno-way one monday if you really think that is the problem.

Wyldman,,, I really don't think I am overtighting the bolts,,but you did make me think of this: maybe the wires are bouncing around to much and causing excess stress on themsleves causing them to turn or something.

Bounds..everything is brand spankin new this year. I didn't buy anything new (big $$ amounts plows etc.) for the winter so I just rebuilt &replaced what I owned. I gave sno-way a whole lotta cash this year..them wiring harness's are not cheap. I rebuilt the plow from the ground up..only thing not new on it is the frame itself. Nice thing is I have a spare of everything :)

Guys thanks for the ideas...let me know if you have anymore.

Happy Holidays
 

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Don't waste your money on a Snoway solenoid,they are the same as a Western.They are made by White-Rodgers.

It's not the fact of ovetightening them,but if the lower nut (under the wire) isn't tight first,then when you put the wire and the top nut on,the whole thing turns when you tighten it,and breaks the connection internally.They are very fragile.
 

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Just fixed a customers with the same problem. Also used Western relay. Just make sure sinle wire on small post of solenoid runs back to battery negative post. Solenoid will melt internally if your're trying to pull juice through there and don't have a good enough ground!! Solenoid can't ground to plastic wheel well>
 
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