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Discussion Starter #1
Polyurethane, urethane, U, edge...

I did a search, and got no results with any of those words. So, I guess this'll be the first thread about them...

I'm installing one on an 8.5 Meyer. (My first U edge.) The steel edge isn't completely shot, so I'm just flipping it over. The bolt holes line up so that what was formerly the top of the steel edge will now be even with the bottom of the plow moldboard itself. From other reading I've done, I plan on leaving 1 1/2 inches of edge (same thickness as the U edge), below the plow. Somebody confirm that that's a good way to do it?

Once it has worn down (hopefully after many happy hours of plowing), what's the best way to remount it for further wear? It looks like if I move it down and drill new holes, the old holes will eventually be in contanct with the pavement. On the ither hand, if I flip it and drill new holes, it looks like when that side wears down ther'll still be a good sized hunk of it left, but with two sets of holes in it. What's the best way to get the most useful life out of it?
 

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as I understand it

You need to measure the distance from the edge of the base angle or bottom if its full trip to the center of the cutting edge mounting holes . With that measurement to need to see if you could drill a series of holes from center to allow for as many 1.5 edges as possible OR from one edge caculate how many sets of mounting holes you can fit to give you the maximum amount of indexes to establish fresh cutting edges . I also heard about the exposed edge to be equal to the material thickness . I am waiting for my edge I ordered from Dino
 

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digger242j - You are on the right track. You may have to adjust the 1.5" down a bit. If you get chatter, you will have to move it down for sure. Since you are using a metal retainer plate, I dont think you will have any problems.

As for how to mount future holes in your edge - I don't know, I am only on my fourth year plowing with mine, and have not had to switch/change it yet!:D

Chuck B.
 

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What's wrong with having the bolt holes end up where the urethane meets the road? The holes are bored perpendicular to the face of the edge but the edge wears on an angle so you will never get a whole hole against the ground. And if you're able to get a plow to scrape so clean that 8 or 10 1/2" holes are going make a difference in your plow job you're way better than I am.
 

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Alan

That sounds logical to be . I guess all the work to calculate the maximum usage isnt really needed. My machinist background is at it again
 

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Discussion Starter #6
And if you're able to get a plow to scrape so clean that 8 or 10 1/2" holes are going make a difference in your plow job you're way better than I am.
Well, maybe I *am*.... :p

(Sorry, Alan. You led with your chin on that one.) ;)


Actually, I suppose that's true. If anyone can confirm or deny whether the old bolt holes constitute a problem, I'm sure they'll speak up. I guess it's just counterintuitive to mount anything with a bunch of holes drilled through the part that's doing the actual work, unless the holes have a purpose in that work.
 

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Yea, if mine would ever wear down enough to move them, I'd love to figure out this problem too LOL. I'm with Alan on this one. If the holes should be a problem, it's easy to shave off a little with the circular saw at the correct angle to avoid them .
 

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If you have a 6" wide edge, just center drill the U edge, and flip it when needed.
Dino
 

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Dino

Please check your private messages :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Actually, it measures 6 1/2 inches. If it were drilled in the center there'd be more than the 1 1/2 inch thickness hanging below the metal parts holding it in place, and my understanding is that that's bad. It would be more like 1 3/4 inches. Is that too much?
 

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Got my U edge today ,now all I need is a length of mild steel and some time to mount it :)
 

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1st post on this board. Just came over from PS.

I would like to get a U-edge for my Western Pro Poly 8'. Where are people buying them from and what do they cost for this plow?

I have noticed that the cutting edge is different on the poly plow, as it go's up the moldboard farther to hold it in place. This means less cutting edge wear.

I usually go through a steel cutting edge every year. How are the U-edge's holding up in comparison?

Thanks. :burnout
 

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Call me at 860-608-1842. I would be happy to quote a price for you, and explain the different methods of mounting.
Dino
 

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Poly Edges

I have them in stock and ready to go, along with a few plows with edges mounted for you to see how to install them.
Also have a set of Power Scoops waiting for you too.
:rolleyes: John.............
 

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My u-edge has some good size nicks in it. Is there a way to get a new clean edge, circular saw? I guess I could drive 10 miles with the plow down, but would rather not. Thanks:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, my U edge installation got put on the back burner for a few days, but I was hoping to get it done today. Now I realize there's something about this that doesn't look right to me...

The old metal edge bolted up tight to the metal frame of the plow moldboard. In position, the face of the poly moldboard, and the cutting edge are flush with each other. I'm using the old metal cutting edge on the face of the new polyurethane cutting edge. This will leave a 3/8" ridge (that's the thickness of the poly face of the plow itself), between the bottom of the plow face and the metal framework it all attaches to. If I crank down the bolts nice and tight I'm assuming the polyurethane edge will bend somewhat, and just kinda squish down over that ridge, but I'm thinking that'll leave the bolts somewhat out of alignment with the holes they're meant to pass through. Will that have any negative results (i.e., play that allows them to loosen, or stress that will wear or crack the edge prematurely)?

A picture is worth a thousand words. Attached, is a highly detailed engineering drawing to illustrate what I'm questioning:
 

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Going on your highly technical drawing there I would be worried that it would put stress on the bolt holes in the cutting edge causing them to go somewhat out of round. I think that with use that might cause them to get bigger causing mor play in the edge and possibly un even wear? If it were me, I would try to get some bar stock te same thickness and drill holes to match and use it as a shim to support the new cutting edge.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That's the same sort of thing I was thinking, but it just seems like, and I'm only being a teeny tiny bit sarcastic here, if it were an *important* issue somebody would've brought it up before now.

Or perhaps the answer to that particular thought is that, "anybody who'll use a Meyer isn't bright enough to think of these questions in advance anyway"...

(There, I beat all the Meyer haters to the punchline!) :D
 
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