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I have a 2018 Silverado 2500hd with an older Western ultramount. When I hit the controls it quite often kills my blower motor. It also will kill my dash lights and gauges and sometimes the Stabilitrac message pops up. I also often hear a back feed through my speakers. It started only when I was driving down the road and hit the control but now it does it when I’m plowing also. It’s getting more frequent and the blower is taking longer to come back on. I tried another controller and there was no change. Any ideas of what it could be? Thanks.
 

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Newer trucks are very sensitive to high power draws, there is probably a TSB on it. Your battery could be getting weak, the plow electric motor drawing more amps, clean all your connections. Check your motor amp draw.
 

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Several Things to consider. First, make sure you have the highest reserve amp battery you can get for your model truck. Next consider changing out your alternator for a higher amp output alternator. Since you stated you have an older model plow, consider having the electric pump motor rebuilt or replaced with a newer model that should not draw as much amps as an older one. Hope these help.
 

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Things to consider. First, make sure you have the highest reserve amp battery you can get for your model truck. Next consider changing out your alternator for a higher amp output alternator. Since you stated you have an older model plow, consider having the electric pump motor rebuilt or replaced with a newer model that should not draw as much amps as an older one. Hope these help.
 

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What dieseldude said
And always practice the big three

Big cables, replace the stock ground from the engine to your chassis run a new ground off of the alternator mount to the battery run a new heavy gauge positive cable from your alternator, run a heavier gauge cable to your solenoid.

Get the biggest battery you can fit in to your try or think of adding a second battery to the other side.

Lastly a bigger alternator even a bigger alternator doesn’t put out more until it reaches about 2000 RPMs then it will fill the pond(batts) up a little quicker when you’re backing up.
 

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What dieseldude said
And always practice the big three

Big cables, replace the stock ground from the engine to your chassis run a new ground off of the alternator mount to the battery run a new heavy gauge positive cable from your alternator, run a heavier gauge cable to your solenoid.

Get the biggest battery you can fit in to your try or think of adding a second battery to the other side.

Lastly a bigger alternator even a bigger alternator doesn’t put out more until it reaches about 2000 RPMs then it will fill the pond(batts) up a little quicker when you’re backing up.
Prestolite makes a series of alternators that develop 63%-90% of their total amperage output at idle or just above.

other Companies do make high idle output alternators that work for his truck.
 

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There isn’t one that will work with His trucks electrical syestem

Notice the (*)

Ps there’s,,, just like a lot of them only put out 60% at idle.

It’s the batt that supply’s the 100-200
Amps to the plow not the alt.
The alt just fills the batt as a batt can only except so .
 

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His best option after going threw the TSB is to add a 2nd batt.

Look at the power curve,
It only gives you 5-10 amps more at idel , and it doesn’t produce its max output until 2000rpm.
9D1688E5-FBAF-4374-9988-FBDAF946159D.jpeg

& For the price it’s a no.
 

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140-160 amps at 650-950 rpm isn’t shabby...will it be enough for his application— probably not. I agree with the extra battery.
 

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Fisher or Western plow?

Have you had the dealer supplied cable added and connect it to your plow?

This is a known problem with some Chebbies and Furds.
 
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