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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought (2) Meyer 7.5' plows, just moldboard, A- frame and angle cyls. I would like to convert them to skid steer plows.

Can anyone help with ideas, drawings or pics of this process and how to properly brace things up and weld to the "universal" push plate. I have seen many homemade conversions break and tear steel due to poor design, trying to avoid that. Also, do I need a regulator for the higher flow and pressure from the machine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated and likely good info for others in the future.
 

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I would suggest fabbing up a reciever plate to go onto the actual couple device it will be much stronger, more agile, better visibility and be more flexible when it come to switching from plow to bucket for various operations.

You should have a cross over relieve valve unless your machine already has one built in. It will allow the hyd circuts to dump into one another in the event you wack something hard rather than blowing out a line or the side of a hydraulic cylinder on the plow.
 

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Do you want down pressure or no? If not just weld some tabs with the proper sized holes on your mounting plate for the plow, then use plow pins to attach it there, then Just run a chain out from the top of the plate to the blade, or you could fab up a short arm on top then a chain, allowing your blade to float. No need to be all complicated simple and strong.:wink or if you want i can suggest a way to drive into the blade with your bucket on and use a couple chains or blocks to prevent side shifting and hook the lift chain to the center of the bucket .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would like down pressure, I was leaning towards welding the vehicle ends of the A-frame (where plow would hook to undercarriage) directly to the push plate. So the plow would move up/down with the push plate. If I did this... would gussets and some supports from push plate to a-frame be good enough. Should I add some supports for the up and down forces on the plow.

Snowjoker- If I understood you right, I could weld the receiving ends of a truck undercarriage to the quick disconnect plate. That's a good idea. These plows will be used for back dragging driveways so I really need down pressure.
 

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I have an 8 foot fisher mounted up for our bobcat 753 the way snowjoker was talking about, it allows the plow to float but I have also welded braces so we can apply down pressure for back dragging drives. If you would like I'll post pictures for you first thing monday morning.
 

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I have my power angle pusher box here at the house, and can get some pics in the am. Yes it is gusseted, and attached directly to a universal plate.
IMO having the plow pinned to a reciever plate puts the plow to far out in front with a meyer plow. Other plows with shorter A frames may work better.
We also used flow restrictors to slow the power angle down so we rip the plow apart with the hydros.
I will say this, that having the plate installed in concert with the machine is a must. Once they are married they may not play nice on another machine.
Our pusher does not like being used on a Thomas skid steer. The Thomas loader arms do not curl back enough, as opposed to the Bobcat 175 for which the pusher was designed around.
Just something to watch for.
Dino
 

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Here's how I did mine. Everything is welded so it has downforce. It's been behind a 270 Deere for two seasons and has had the snot beat out of it and it's still holding up fine. No repairs yet since I put it together. In total, I have about $200 in this plow.

If I were to build another, which I will someday, I would have put some more pitch on the mounting plate. Have it tilting forward a bit so all you have to do is raise and lower the blade with one pedal.
 

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I am also trying to do the same thing with an 8ft artic onto a s300 bobcat. The pics with the bobcat and the red plow... do you have power angle, because it doesnt look like it? very nice setup by the looks of it.

I would love to see the bucket attachment that holds the blade, only because I havent started yet and I could really use both bucket and blade at one big location.

I will post pics once I start
 

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I am also trying to do the same thing with an 8ft artic onto a s300 bobcat. The pics with the bobcat and the red plow... do you have power angle, because it doesnt look like it? very nice setup by the looks of it.

I would love to see the bucket attachment that holds the blade, only because I havent started yet and I could really use both bucket and blade at one big location.

I will post pics once I start
Yes it has power angle. Didn't have the rams and hoses hooked up yet in the pictures. I put a adjustable flow restricter in one of the hoses so I could have control over the speed of the turning. Without one the blade will slam side to side.

The plate that connects to the machine was purchased off ebay. The A frame is welded directly to the plate. To switch to a bucket I just need to flip the levers and pull the hoses.
 

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Well it took me three days instead of one but here are the pictures.:eek:
Plow needs paint but you can see how we set it up. Originally we didn't have the braces for back dragging, after a couple of storms we added them. This set up has moved large amounts of snow over the last 6 years with no problems at all. works great for pushing bankings back and will stack snow 10' high.
 

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Well it took me three days instead of one but here are the pictures.:eek:
Plow needs paint but you can see how we set it up. Originally we didn't have the braces for back dragging, after a couple of storms we added them. This set up has moved large amounts of snow over the last 6 years with no problems at all. works great for pushing bankings back and will stack snow 10' high.
That looks like a pretty cool setup! You can float the plow on it's own mount, rock the plate forward and allow the loader arms to float, or bear down on it and scrape the asphalt up if needed! Definitely a neat rig.
 

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GFX.

It's tough to see in that picture but did you allow any room for the blade to rotate left and right so that if the machine and blade are on two different slopes it doesn't gouge the pavement?
 

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GFX.

It's tough to see in that picture but did you allow any room for the blade to rotate left and right so that if the machine and blade are on two different slopes it doesn't gouge the pavement?


Just the normal play in the plow and pins that you would have if it was mounted on a truck.

You have to make sure you have an operator that understands the plow A frame should be level when pushing on the pavement. Otherwise there is the posssibility of damaging the pavement. Although that has never been an issue before.

The only problem we have had was when we had been plowing for 24 hrs straight, the opperator was pulling up to a garage door to back drag, as he approached hit the switch to straighten the blade, went the wrong way and hit the door:mad:. The blade angles extremely fast. Unfortunatley I couldn't say much to the operator, it was me.:eek:
 

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GFX.

It's tough to see in that picture but did you allow any room for the blade to rotate left and right so that if the machine and blade are on two different slopes it doesn't gouge the pavement?
The plow has all the normal movement it would have on a truck with the exception of where the A-frame pins would pivot up and down. That area was welded. The center pivot pin has quite a bit of play to allow the plow to move side to side.

Never had a problem yet, although it now is riding on a rubber edge for parking structure clearing.
 

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The only problem we have had was when we had been plowing for 24 hrs straight, the opperator was pulling up to a garage door to back drag, as he approached hit the switch to straighten the blade, went the wrong way and hit the door:mad:. The blade angles extremely fast. Unfortunatley I couldn't say much to the operator, it was me.:eek:
Put an adjustable flow control valve in one of the lines and you will be able to dial in a comfortable speed for angling the blade.
 

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Here are three pics of a plow i converted not too long ago. I used a down pressure system for the icy snows, with a chain lift just long enough to let the plow float if need be. The down pressure is more for back dragging but also works going forward.

I have done four of these with this being the final design on the last three.

The down pressure plate is just angle iron cut to fit and welded at the top corners of the skid loader attachment plate. Hopefully you can see the design good enough to fab something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
OK next question, do you have hoses direct from the aux. hydraulics to the cylinders? My Case dealer told me I had to run through this pressure diverter valve box thing. It allows fluid to move back to the machine since the plow has one way cylinders (just one hose fitting) All told after buying for 2 plows I spent $884.00 on the diverters and hoses!
 
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