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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you've got an inclined driveway and plan on storing your plow in your garage - don't get a Fisher. Or a Western, or possibly a new Snoway either. The MM2 with the Jack-Lock will not engage the pins on my plow when the blade is resting on a level surface (garage floor) and my truck's rear wheels are on a slight downslope (driveway). It is possible to get it to hookup when two guys are there if one pushes down hard on the bumper while the other pushes up on the headgear...sometimes. Attempting a solo hookup is next to impossible.

Last winter I stored my blades (two Snoway Predator 25's, and a Meyer C-8) in the exact same way. Zero problems hooking them up to the trucks. Could do any of them solo in just a couple of minutes. Not so with the new MM2 of the Fisher.

It seems to be a combo of the jack-lock and the two pins acting together rather than independently.

To say I'm frustrated about this would be a serious understatement. I've wasted countless hours trying to rectify the problem, and so has my dealer. It is becoming more and more likely that I may need to seek a full refund (plow has been used all of one time) and purchase an Arctic blade which appears to have an attachment system similar to my Meyer.

Hopefully the Fisher tech guy sees this and can offer a solution before its too late.
 

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My plow is a Fisher MM2 straight blade. I have an inclined blacktop driveway and drop my plow on the upper edge that has been leveled with gravel. I have not really had an issue although my truck tires are on the incline and the plow is on the level. A little bit different than your scenario.

Is it a height issue or an angle issue? Could you adjust the angle by putting a 2x4 or 4x4 under the blade prior to unhooking the plow? Maybe even a small 2x6 ramp under each rear tire prior to hook-up to raise the rear and set a better angle. I know its "high-tech *******" but it may work. It sounds to me like when the weight is off the plow and the truck raises that sets up your problem. I am not familiar with a lot of other mfg's hook-ups, but I would think this may be a problem with most others also.

Good luck!


Pete :usa
 

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cutntrim,
You must have something wrong with your setup in particular. I have a mm1 with an 8' straight blade and a mm2 with an 8'6" EZV. Both plows are on F250 Superdutys. I also have large driveway/parking lot that inclines in every conceivable direction. I have disconnected and reconnected both plows in many different spots in my driveway and have never had to spend more than 5 minutes per connect/disconnect. I do try to pick a spot so the truck and the plow are tilted the same way. I will say that at the beginning of my second season with my mm1 I could not get the pin on one side to engage. After much cursing, I finally realized I hadn't lengthened the safety chain enough to allow the headgear to pivot. Other than that, I've never had a problem. Sorry I don't have any answers for you. Have you tried Pete's suggestion of blocking up the plow to change the angle?
 

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every one i have asked about the MM II has said easy hoo u and so forth but all have been on fairly level ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have thought about "ramping" the rear wheels, but that's not really practical in stormy weather in the middle of the night. As well, I think it would require much trial and error to get the angle just right, not to mention I don't think I should be having to go through all of that with a new $6,000+ plow.

I have pulled in and engaged the passenger-side pin, then raised the blade and put a 2"x4" under the driver's side to lift up that side's pin. Sometimes it works, sometimes not, but never easily.

For the two pins to pop into place, the pin-holes on either side of the truck must be lined up: top-to-bottom, and front-to-back. In another thread I described how one side was higher than the other and found that my truck was higher on one side than the other. A torsion adjustment corrected that. However, it seems that when driving into the push plates the sub-frame on the driver's side does not "seat" itself in as far as it does on the passenger side. In other words, the pin is too far out from the hole to pop in. What I, and the dealer, are unable to figure out is whether there is any adjustment on the plow that can be made to correct this. I think that the actual frame itself was possibly welded out of alignment and nothing can be done to fix it.

Oddly, my dealer can get the plow to hook up without difficulty at his shop...flat ground. He re-checked the truck's ride height (left-to-right) then changed the plow's mount to the middle hole setting from the lowest setting. This gave the plow more lift when fully raised. Unfortunately, when I tried it at home - no luck.

Wonder if Fisher has ever had a blade returned because of a problem like this? Something is definately wrong, and I can't make use of a blade I can't hook-up to.
 

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cutntrim

I do have one or two suggestions to try.
just make sure your lift ram have plenty of slack and your safety chain does too like others have told you.

#1 after you drop the plow run the rig forward or backwards a few feet to it's resting spot. That will unload the suspension especially if your not level. that will get the everything relaxed for removal and install.

#2 If your resting on cement i would get a set of dollies (I have a set) and use then with the same unloading procedure. I had simular problems untill i relaxed the suspension. The dollies just make it slick. I can tell when it's right when I set the rear foot and the pins slide out. I use my bar to adjust the foot to that point.
Plenty of slack in the chains to work the head into the pins.
i have my MM1 down to 30 to 40 seconds. I had mega problems like this untill i took the time to think it out. It did work for me..
You can do it.........:p
 

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Cutntrim
Sometimes when I approach the plow at an angle, I can engage one pin but the other side is not deep enough to engage. I can usually grab the plow blade and give it a shove to get the other side to engage. The other thing I have found that helps is this. When I drive into the mount, I get out to make sure everything is properly aligned. Then I get back into the truck and drive forward to put pressure on the mount. Before taking it out of drive, I set the parking brake to hold the truck forward then put it in park. This method seems to speed up the process at least for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
BWinkle - The method you described is exactly how I attempt to attach the plow each time.

Mike - I have though about using a jack to lift up the driver's side of the plow near the pin hole. Are you talking about those plow dollies that are advertised in mags and on the internet? One for the blade edge and another for the jack-leg? I'm having trouble visualizing your method.
 

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Mike - I have though about using a jack to lift up the driver's side of the plow near the pin hole. Are you talking about those plow dollies that are advertised in mags and on the internet? One for the blade edge and another for the jack-leg? I'm having trouble visualizing your method.
cutntrim:
Yes the dollies go on both edges and leg of the plow. Mine cost me about $30. It just made it so much easier to rotate the plow around. Even though you take the pressure off the suspension you still might need to lower the leg a little more to lift the plow out of the mount. It just seems to me that the plow is to low when you try to rehook causing you to have to jack the plow up to have it seat into the cradle. The dollies would help you move the plow around. From what I've been reading the suspension is still loaded.... I use the dollies to pull the plow away from the truck. NOT the truck away from the blade. If it's tight in some way you will move the blade in some way when you back away causing more of a misalignment. When i can just grab the plow and roll it away it's set for reinstall. Granted your Blade is bigger than mine but if there is no tension it just slides out..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update:

Called Fisher directly in Maine. Left a message with them to call me back and they did 5min. later. He listened to my problem, then suggested that the problem could be with the frame mount itself. Apparently there is a very slight difference in the length the mount extends from the truck frame between pre-'02 GMC trucks and post-'02 GMC trucks. I called the dealer to check the part number and he found that he was shipped the correct part. Whether or not the guys in shipping at Fisher actually put the right mount into the correctly marked box is uncertain. Won't be able to do anything about it 'till after X-mas. Then we'll check measurements between the left and right mounts to see if we can detect a noticeable difference. Then a replacement set of mounts can be ordered under warranty. If there is no difference in measuring then it's possible there was an error during the actual fabrication of the mount, maybe some shmeg from a weld? causing the driver's side to get hung up on the mount before fully seating itself. Anyhow, the saga continues...
 

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I had a similar problem with my old plow, I used to drive in to hook up, then before I attempted to put the pins in, I would raise the jack. Would need to put back on the headgear to take the pressure off, but because the push plates are in, they will hold it up without the jack up. Once the jack was not working against me, I was able to lock the pins without a problem. I also had a garage with angles. Mine had an angle from every side down to the center for water drainage, so it was fairly difficult to get a flat surface anywhere.
 

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Unless I missed it my MM2 X blade does not have a highway safety chain . So If I lost plow function I cant use the bottle jack I carry to lift the plow and chain it to get back to the garage . I think I can "short chain it " with a bolt ,nut and washers . I wonder why they took out the highway chain ?
 

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Bill
There is a slot in the lift eye so you can short chain it without any tools. I think they got rid of it because people were forgetting to let it out before hooking up the mm1. Not to mention they probably saved a few bucks.
 

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Thanks for the heads up . I was looking for the same setup my MM1 had
 
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