OK, no meyers jokes! I have a C-8 on a 95 K2500. Stock suspension. Torsion bars turned up a little for the plow. When the plow is straight, no prob, plow sits even on the ground. If I angle it all the way to the left or right, the edges don't touch the pavement. I put the plow into all 3 pin holes on the frame. It gets worse as I go up to the highest pin. Do I need to get my mounts on the plow cut off and made taller, therefore lowering the back of the plow to help with the uneveness? BTW, it has a new cutting edge on it too. Thanks guys.
Level plow problem
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Is this plow new, or new to the truck? Is it a stock cutting edge that you bought for it?
It sounds like the plow frame has to much of an angle of attach. This happened with one of my plows when I switched to a U-edge and it dropped the moldboard down about 3" from a stock steel edge.
Measure the distance(space between) from the front of the a-frame(nearest to moldboard) and the ground. And measure the distance from the back of the a-frame(nearest to truck) to the ground. There should be only a slight downward pitch from the truck to the moldboard, along the a-frame.
Each manufacture is different, so I don't know if my specs would work for your application. I am sure someone else will chime in on this one!
Chuck B.
It sounds like the plow frame has to much of an angle of attach. This happened with one of my plows when I switched to a U-edge and it dropped the moldboard down about 3" from a stock steel edge.
Measure the distance(space between) from the front of the a-frame(nearest to moldboard) and the ground. And measure the distance from the back of the a-frame(nearest to truck) to the ground. There should be only a slight downward pitch from the truck to the moldboard, along the a-frame.
Each manufacture is different, so I don't know if my specs would work for your application. I am sure someone else will chime in on this one!
Chuck B.
Neither the truck nor the plow is new. I replaced the cutting edge because it was very worn. I never noticed this problem till I put the new edge on. The old edge was worn really bad on the passenger side of the plow. Maybe thats why I never noticed it till now. I'll have to go and measure it and see what I can find out.
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Simple....
UN-Crank those torsion bars!
There's no harm in running them low.
Your sector (half moon thing that your 4 trip springs mount to) has to be very close to level (front to back).
Is your trailing edge (rear, regardless of which way its angled) of the cutting edge NOT touching when at full angle then?
What size tires?
UN-Crank those torsion bars!
There's no harm in running them low.
Your sector (half moon thing that your 4 trip springs mount to) has to be very close to level (front to back).
Is your trailing edge (rear, regardless of which way its angled) of the cutting edge NOT touching when at full angle then?
What size tires?
I hate to un crank them, I think trucks look ugly with the nose to the ground. I currently have 285/75 R16 on the truck. I'm going to check it in the morning to see about how level everything is, and then go from there. My C3500 has super duty front end springs and plows even in any direction. I think that my other plow is just now quite level. I get back and let you know what happened.
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660 Posts
OK,
Here's my thought.
Truck originally came with NORMALLY set torsion bars and 245 tires.
Meyer MAKES the mount based on these measurements.
You have OVERSIZE tires(considerably bigger) and cranked torsion bars.
You went to a 3" taller tire, and probably 2-3" higher on the bars.
Go back to a smaller tire and uncrank the torsion bars.
Plowing isn't about "looking pretty or ugly" its about getting the work done.
Cranked torsion bars shorten the life of frontend components.
Here's my thought.
Truck originally came with NORMALLY set torsion bars and 245 tires.
Meyer MAKES the mount based on these measurements.
You have OVERSIZE tires(considerably bigger) and cranked torsion bars.
You went to a 3" taller tire, and probably 2-3" higher on the bars.
Go back to a smaller tire and uncrank the torsion bars.
Plowing isn't about "looking pretty or ugly" its about getting the work done.
Cranked torsion bars shorten the life of frontend components.
But my problem is if the mount is made at a certain height then putting on a plow lowers the front end thus making it off again. My thought if the mount is made to be at a certain height, then the truck should stay at the height. Also if the the bars are lowered, I have a decrease in ground clearance. I beileve that the tires may have more to do with the issue. The bars only have 5 full turns on them. "Go back to a smaller tire" is not a real option here either. $500 -$600 to fix this small problem? Not very wise I think. I'm going to take a little time tomorrow and look everything over. I think if the truck is too high, then the "ears" of the plow will be cut off and made taller to compensate for the tires and/or torsion bars.
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660 Posts
Your ride height while transporting plow (up Position) has nothing to do with your working plow height.
Do this. On a level surface with plow UN-hooked. Using 2x4's or other shimming devices and a bubble level.
Place level on plow sector or A-Frame angles and level it. Now measure from the pin holes (ears) to the ground.
Now park your truck on a level surface (without plow on) and measure down from the lowest pin hole setting.
They should be real close. If not, UN-Crank those torsion bars and see if doing so will allow you to come close. If not, welding will be required but will affect the overall strength/weakness of the A-Frame.
Tallest tire I'd go with would be a 235/85-16 (tall and skinny)
Do this. On a level surface with plow UN-hooked. Using 2x4's or other shimming devices and a bubble level.
Place level on plow sector or A-Frame angles and level it. Now measure from the pin holes (ears) to the ground.
Now park your truck on a level surface (without plow on) and measure down from the lowest pin hole setting.
They should be real close. If not, UN-Crank those torsion bars and see if doing so will allow you to come close. If not, welding will be required but will affect the overall strength/weakness of the A-Frame.
Tallest tire I'd go with would be a 235/85-16 (tall and skinny)
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850 Posts
The company I used to work for owned all fords(10 of them) with all meyers plows,,everytime we put a new edge on, the last 2-3" of the edge wouldn't touch the ground on a full angle. They would range from 1/2"-1 1/2" depending on which truck it was. I also had the same problem with my 90' chevy when I put the new edge on the western.
After a few runs the blade wears in so I wouldn't worry about it to much. No pavement is 100% perfect so you probably won't even notice it when plowing.
Thats just my $.02
Oh yeah I have 0 turns in the 90' and 4 in the 03'. 300# of tube sand in each and a backplow.
After a few runs the blade wears in so I wouldn't worry about it to much. No pavement is 100% perfect so you probably won't even notice it when plowing.
Thats just my $.02
Oh yeah I have 0 turns in the 90' and 4 in the 03'. 300# of tube sand in each and a backplow.
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I'm running 245/75/16 stock chevy size on both trucks.
I just got back from the shop and I measured the plow. The truck mount is 2.5" higher than at the pivot point on the a frame. I think I've found my problem. Now how to solve it. I MAY turn the torsion bars down. Or I might cut the eyelets off and weld another piece of 1.5" solid square steel on top of it. It is 1.5" squared so that will bring me real close to level. I checked my other truck and it is within .5" of each other so I think I'll be OK. When and if I do it I'll take pics of before and afters.
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