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I would like to start a thread with tip and tricks for the different blizzard plow/truck combos as I learn a little on every new install...

Truck side:

Ford Superduty 250/350: I wish they did not use a locking nut on the long rodded bolt, let me use loctite and it would be easier to tighten the bolt. Order the 450/550 and you get an extra bracket, they say you don't need it, then why do they included it in the heavier trucks?

Dodge 2003 2500

Hole behind power steering box might need to be enlarged. See above about locking nut. Grind tow hook brackets flat before putting bumper back on.

Electrical: lengthen the three spade ground connection as it always seems too short. I ALWAYS put at least the positive battery cable in wire loom. Use t splice connectors to tap into the park/turn lights (much easier).

Anyone else?

Howard
 

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For 94-02 Dodge Ram 2500-

Blizzard claims a no-drill application, but it makes it harder to install. On the bolts for the "arm" brackets, there is one bolt that uses an existing hole, and you are expected to get a special nut on the inside of the frame, but the frame is boxed. Just buy a bolt long enough to span the width of the frame, drill through, and make sure to use a piece of steel tubing as a sleeve, otherwise you will collapse the frame. And then on the bracket right behind the body mount, we needed to buy a longer bolt (you are expected to reuse the factory). Otherwise, install isn't too tough.
 

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I found one today

First off, I gotta say that the new Chevrolet/GMC are the easiest to install the light harness. I love the fact that the truck lights pop right out for service!

On the Chevrolet/GMC 1500 (mount # 30087)

The push beam and hangars are all one unit. (Cool). The problem we found is that the back of the mount uses 2 pre-existing, threaded holes in the bottom of the trucks cross beam. This beam is merely a piece of stamped steel. The holes were not drilled but "punched" out, then treaded. This is fine for holding the plastic splash cover in place but really suckes for holding the mount. You can see into the cross beam and see the punched steel. We ended up breaking off the slug, getting a longer bolt, getting it snug, then installed a washer and locking nut on top (bit of a pain, but way stronger).

Question for installers. Regarding the main wiring harness. When running through the fire wall, do you make a large hole for the square end to go through? Or do you take the end off and make the hole just big enough for the wire loom?
 
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