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Chains work but are a real pain. I also plow a very steep and curvy driveway 1/3 mile long. Really good studded snows have worked for me and I agree with the post about making sure you have ballast. If it gets really bad, leave the truck at the bottom and back up in reverse and plow down in sections.
 

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First step, put 2,000 pounds of sand in the back, that will help a lot. Since you are not driving the truck on the road, have the tires less that the maximum pressure. That gives you better traction as well. And you can go with something like this for the tires: https://www.amazon.com/MATCC-Emergency-Adjustable-Upgrade-6-5-10-8/dp/B081YJBVPV/ref=pd_sbs_60_4/138-1116037-2049348?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B081YJBVPV&pd_rd_r=c1f41ae6-839c-4feb-b393-14d3aac5fcb4&pd_rd_w=OpPHx&pd_rd_wg=J1o4F&pf_rd_p=bdd201df-734f-454e-883c-73b0d8ccd4c3&pf_rd_r=3ZFV289DAAPFP1Z616MR&psc=1&refRID=3ZFV289DAAPFP1Z616MR
that much weight could be problematic in weight distribution.
 

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For reference , I plowed residentially with an 03 GMC ext cab, but a 2500, 35 driveways, one long uphill, but gravel. Set up right, the setup was excellent, like a tank running down unplowed roads and highways. I had no backup,so had to get unstuck on my own if conditions got bad. 8’ Fisher, (~800#), 800# ballast at tailgate, TrXus MT comp tires 85 series.

Overall ,it sounds like you are not ballasted and it’s worsened by wide tires.
1. Ballast! That truck has weak front end, though you have a relatively light plow (550#) You need to counterbalance with the about the same weight. Get weight BEHIND the axle, against the tailgate, esp. if you have a shortbed, that’ll take weight of front end to save it, and give you traction. I ran 800# back there.
2. IMO, tires are too wide, I ran 85 series. My tires ( TrXus MT ) were a thin off-road tire, but these are siped so they help on ice. The side lugs were so large, if I fell off an edge, those would grab and I could easily yank myself out. I sell my snows when they are 50% worn. In your case, sounds like you may still need chains , but you’ll see a difference with a thinner tire with the right tread. I had great results with the TrXs. The width of your tires and less weight is working against you.
3. 7.5’ plow, yep, you’ll leave snow in rear tire tracks on a turn, that’s why I went 8’, but that was to knock off time to get many driveways done. Watch the plow angle and turns. You should still have no real issue with 7.5’ doing what you are doing.
4. Take the shoes off, what good are they doing if the blade hits first anyhow, other than float the plow in deeper snow? I only used shoes on gravel driveways as customers appreciated it.
5. Urethane edge. I ran one, few around here did. Why? Less damage to lawns, truck, noise and hits on truck. Made my life great. Sometimes like a squeegee depending on conditions, BUT, I don’t see how it will help you. It won’t backdrag worth a ****. It won’t touch ice. It can leave behind a layer depending upon conditions. If I had to do ice scraping, I switched edges. But, I loved it due to shock absorption if hitting a manhole cover or curb, as did customers due to no damage. Customers pleaded I come back out of retirement. You need to wear them in first.
6. Passes? 2, maybe 3 passes on that driveway like others said. It sounds like making an ice skating rink and polishing it. No offense intended, but Somethings is not right, unless you are just grooming it as it’s your house. But the real question is, why so many passes? How many inches are you plowing at once? 3-5” and you should be out there. Like others have said, that plow may need the attack angle adjusted.
7. Last thought, does that truck have an AWD and 4WD? My 2000 had both, then they had issues with plowers using AWD. I only used AWD if driving out onto a dry street, otherwise 4WD while plowing. Some will argue, but it can help with braking, ( several factors here) but you need to know how to work with it and the truck.
8. Caution, plowing across street and no insurance? Plowing across street can be an issue in some towns.

Hope that helps. Try it in this order 1. Ballast 2. Take off shoes ( at least try with them off) 3. Adjust plow attack angle 4. Move to thinner tires if you are still sliding, look for a true good ice/ snow tire..siping. Or go with chains on yours first. 5. Practice and technique.

Good luck.

By the way, retired now, I plow my own driveways with a Jeep and light plastic plow. Nice to do tight turns, but just can’t push as much snow, but you can chip away at anything. I don’t see how that will magically fix your problem, as it still boils down to proper weight / ballast in relationship to tires. It’s the setup and technique.

Go buy 10 sandbags!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
All of you have given such great advice. I always thought that heavy weight would make sliding down my driveway worse. But THANKS.
I'M headed to Wappingers today to look at a Grand Cherokee with a Smaller, lighter Curtis plow and then a 99 Blazer with a Fisher MM.
I want to sell my 2003 Ext Cab Silverado simply because its so damn big. It wont fit in my garage, turn radius is too big, and I keep backing my spreader into walls.
But with a smaller cherokee (or 99ish Blazer) I can do better turns and my kids can plow.
I agree the tires are too wide. Came with the truck so I assume they were right for the truck. I'll make sure i get narrower snow tires on my replacement vehicle.
Sandbags in whichever vehicle I use.

I plowed the driveway several times because i thought i was supposed to. The only vehicle that can make it down is the Truck...our AWD SUVs would slide.
I assumed I needed to plow several times to get it down to the asphalt then spread Deicer (i dont use salt). I will try just 3 or so passes to get as much down to the pavement I can.
(I cant plow up hill, it slows me down and then i stall. So I've only plowed downhill, then raced uphill, then plowed down again the opposite side).

So in a snowy day is it safe to say the best practice as a homeowner is to plow it after 2-3 inches, then wait and do it again later if it continues to snow all day?

as for insurance and street - yeah I never intended on going into the street...i slid into it backwards and forwards even with the plow down. If you can see it, google maps tends to flatten hills in pictures.
Again thanks for all the great advice. I'm not out to plow for cash - just my own.
30852
 

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Don’t buy a Curtis plow they stopped making nearly 15 years ago for trucks and there is no support for them.
 

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All of you have given such great advice. I always thought that heavy weight would make sliding down my driveway worse. But THANKS.
I'M headed to Wappingers today to look at a Grand Cherokee with a Smaller, lighter Curtis plow and then a 99 Blazer with a Fisher MM.
I want to sell my 2003 Ext Cab Silverado simply because its so damn big. It wont fit in my garage, turn radius is too big, and I keep backing my spreader into walls.
But with a smaller cherokee (or 99ish Blazer) I can do better turns and my kids can plow.
I agree the tires are too wide. Came with the truck so I assume they were right for the truck. I'll make sure i get narrower snow tires on my replacement vehicle.
Sandbags in whichever vehicle I use.

I plowed the driveway several times because i thought i was supposed to. The only vehicle that can make it down is the Truck...our AWD SUVs would slide.
I assumed I needed to plow several times to get it down to the asphalt then spread Deicer (i dont use salt). I will try just 3 or so passes to get as much down to the pavement I can.
(I cant plow up hill, it slows me down and then i stall. So I've only plowed downhill, then raced uphill, then plowed down again the opposite side).

So in a snowy day is it safe to say the best practice as a homeowner is to plow it after 2-3 inches, then wait and do it again later if it continues to snow all day?

as for insurance and street - yeah I never intended on going into the street...i slid into it backwards and forwards even with the plow down. If you can see it, google maps tends to flatten hills in pictures.
Again thanks for all the great advice. I'm not out to plow for cash - just my own.
View attachment 30852
invariably you will need to go into the road with a big storm and clean things up. So, I suggest get insurance and tags.... saves you from a headache if you get hit by a fool.
 

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Looks like you have bit of land there. A Jeep or smaller vehicle will make maneuvering a lot easier, but it’s interesting your say your SUVs have trouble with the drive as well. I bet if that driveway were gravel you’d be better off. Anyhow, have you considered a UTV or compact tractor? You may get much more value and use out of it than than a vehicle that you just use for plowing. I only have 2 acres and will not give up my compact tractor for anything. For seasonal property, I’ve been looking at the Bobcat UTV , 3650, power dump bed and it has attachment mechanism upfront for a plow, forks or loader. Still expensive used 12-15K, but equipment holds its value, as you’ll probably never wear it out. A compact tractor will have more utility and endless attachments available, but the UTV could be fun if you have room to use it. Also, maybe a blower on a tractor would better than a plow for you. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I've bought a small used Olds Bravada. It has a Fischer 6.5 ft plow. Decent M + S tires i will get chains for. I will try it out. Its junker but its small and the same platform as the Blazer I wanted. I still have my Silverado as a backup.
I am concerned with the AWD in it - its not a 4WD like i was looking for but i was desperate. For $1100 i cant go wrong.
I figure if it doesnt work I can take the plow off and get a 2D blazer and sell the Olds for $500.
 

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$1100.00 driveway problem as well... AWD is my preferred drivetrain option. But, I prefer it with 50/50 standard split normally with traction contro. The Smart Track system in the Bravada I believe operates 0/50 biased towards the rear wheels until the wheels slip. that could be a bit of an issue.
 
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