[urethane dino]

I have an 86 K 30 with the hydro clutch set up. Since I have owned the truck I have replaced the clutch master and slave 4x, can never really get the system to bleed properly. Problem is that the master tapers upward from the firewall with the line connecting at the bottom of the master. It ends up trapping air at the of the bore. Does anyone have som ideas for better bleeding of the system? I just ordered an aftermarket master cyl from
www.cncbrakes.com
We have tried everything and used 4 different mechanics.
Chris are you out there??
Dino

 

[Alan]

Dino, are you bench bleeding the master before you put it on? If it's anything like a brake master it's about impossible to bleed them in place.

 

[urethane dino]

Alan its hard to descrbe, but bench bleeding isnt an option. Unless the system is 100% closed, air will just creep back in. Plus it has a remote resivoire, so it makes bench bleeding even harder.
Dino

 

[wyldman]

They are a royal PITA to get all the air out.

Have you tried a power bleeder ? They seem to work the best.

If bleeding manually,bleed it very,very slowly,with very little pedal pressure.It's just a matter of trying and trying till you get it.

If it will not bleed at all,then you have damaged the master cyl seal,or the slave is leaking,and sucking air.

 

[urethane dino]

Chris
Do you think that the afterarket unit will be a better design than the OEM type units?
Dino

 

[towman]

we had a tow truck of the same vintage that was always going thru clutch parts, not really sure but i wonder if you could jack up on end of the truck to get the line on the master level while bleeding

 

[wyldman]

I have never used anything but the OEM stuff.I don't think there is anything wrong with the factory parts,just a PITA to bleed them.

 

[paulsoccodato]

the best way i have found to do them is to, have someone hold the clutch engaged either with blocking or a helper with a pry-bar, and pump the clutch allowing the slave to fully extend and retract.

repeat this a couple of times while bleeding, then you can release the fork and bleed it a couple more times with resistance on it.

 

[Mac_Muz]

On some stuborn foreign cars I have reverse bleed by line bleeding.

You might try that....

What you do is a normal bled, and it would not hurt to force the throw out arm into the pressure plate and lock it some how.

When you have a pedal at all, have the holder hold the pedal down as normal but rather than open the bleeder crack the line at the master and allow the throw put arm off the lock up to push back.

If you decide that is too much of a pain try it with out locking the throw out arm, but still allow it to push fluid back.

Maybe that will move the air that is held low in the master.

Another thing I used to pull was loosening master which were lowered due to mostly cars that had been in a crash and the fire wall was left bent.

Adding a block under the master flange and tightening the master to be on a different angle could help move air forward.

I hope something helps... Mac

 

[Big Nate's Plowing]

my old s-10 was the same way, pita to bleed. ended up "reverse bleeding" the system, drawing fresh fluid from a hose into a can of brake fluid and sucking through the slave and the lines to the master where there was a special cap that hooked up to the pump.