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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I have been thinking about really building up my truck. Kinda like a really bad itch...hahaha

Direction is possibly up to twin turbos, eventually.

So this brings up the thread, how much is too much? When thinking about a street machine, towing-plow vehicle and daily fun driver.

Or do we just jump on the band wagon of "You can never ever have too much"? LOL! :burnout
 

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I think somewhere around 400 HP is about right :D I turned mine way up this fall to make a few passes,but it killed the driveabilty,and it had way to much smoke.I could peg the EGT gauge almost instantly,and turn day into night.:eek: I would need twins to keep it cool at that power level.

As long as it has good driveability,and EGT's are manageable,it will make a good daily driver,and tow vehicle.
 

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kinda curious on this subject as well... i know john has some goodies done to his and works out of it, i really dont wanna take the driveability out of the truck either. maybe a HP recipe list?
 

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1) First thing is to open up the exhaust,and remove the cat or resonator,and the muffler.If it's too loud,get a good Allied or Walker 4" free flow muffler.

2) Open up the intake side next.Chuck the stock airbox,and get a BHAF,or other equivalent free flowing air system.

3) Add a little more fuel and get a boost fooler to help cool it off.A set of injectors and a box will give good results.Turining up the line pressures,or a good shift kit will help the tranny hold at this power level.This is probablt the best all around driveability\towing setup for daily use.

4) If you want more,you'll need to start getting into a bigger fueling box,bigger injectors,and bigger turbo(s).This is where it gets expensive.Tranny mods will also be needed to make it last,and put the power to the ground.With the stock Dodge TC,it's like using a rubber band.Beware,once you get to this point,you need to seek help,as it all goes downhill from here.Just ask John. :D

I'm sure John will chime in here with some more options.

Here is a pic of the BHAF filter setup on my truck.Cheap,easy,and flows a ton of air.The turbo seems real happy with it too,as it sings real pretty now. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have the BHAF coming in tomorrow. I will post a photo of it installed. I already have the Edge EZ computer box, so I look forward to breathing much better now.

4" Exhaust will come soon too, gotta find someone locally and have some good contacts to check out already.

I did talk to John today and we have a plan for the truck. Transmission needs some help anyway, so that is high on the save up for list. Stage 2 injectors will go in at this same time and boom. I think it will be awesome at this point.

From there after I see how it is we might go on, but we will have to see. From what John told me this might be as far as I have to go. I cant wait.

Like I said above, its a really bad itch....hahaha

Oh yeah, gauges will be next, and are a must. Just have to check out whats out there and what I like. This is a must from what I can find, and everyone all over the internet will comfirm this too!
 

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Get the gauges first,so you have a baseline.Never hurts to be safe.While that setup may provide manageable EGT's,some trucks run hot.

Check for boost leaks too,as that will kill performance and send EGT's through the roof.As you add more power,and boost comes up,it will be more evident.
 

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I agree with everything Chris said in his above post. On a 24V,you do not need a free flowing air cleaner,and exhaust right away.You can add more power with just a minor fueling box.The air cleaner,exhaust does help,but it isnt necessay until about 325hp.The auto trans is a sore spot on these trucks.It needs to be addressed with some trucks as soon as you add more than 50hp,others will hold 75hp or so extra.
IMO for most people who arent happy with just a small box,they will need to do some trans work.Sometimes just a shft kit will hold things together for a while.To be honest though I recommend upgrading the entire trans at this time.If your going to pull the trans out,and go into it you might as well go thru the whole thing. Once the trannys done(this is by far the single biggest expense),you can add more power.I recommend diesel dynamics stage 2 injectors for 90% of the 24V trucks. This combined with a minor fueling box will deliver more power than you could ever need,and the torque will be unbeleivable.the truck wil be around 310-320RWHP at this point with about 700-750 ft lbs at the rear wheels,from 1500RPM on up..Driveablity will be excellent,very smooth and powerful.If you need more.get a major fueling box,and do some fuel system work (address the weak lift pump),then add a larger turbo and 400-450hp RWHP is about where you'll be,with about 850 ft lbs at the wheels.AT this point if your still not happy there are step 4 injectors and EDM injectors that will get you to about 500hp with a single turbo.If you want more than 500HP you need to go twin turbos or use Nitrous. Building these trucks is very fun,and satisfying,but it isnt cheap. i think reliability is great to about 475hp.At this point the boost you make starts to get to the point where you may blow the head gasket,also the EGTSs get high with a single turbo.The transfer case,rear ends,and axles have all been very reliable from my experience.
On the 12v trucks,simply putting in a torque plate,and governor spring kit will take the truck to the point of needing tranny work.If more is wanted turbo changes,and injector changes will be needed.
Anyone needing more info feel free to Pm me,I have made some mistakes building mine,and if i coud do it over id save a lot of time,and money.
 

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the bhaf in the pic, is it a fleetrite filter? part #?does it get wet?
john ant preference on alum or stainless on the exhaust. im not wanting to spend a ton of $$ on a exhaust and figure 4" will be ok but may just do 5" and go for the 400-450hp mark.
 

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The BHAF is a Fleetguard,part number 19307.

Other parts places should be able to get you one if they cross reference it,or get a Fleetguard from your local Cummins dealer or heavy truck shop.

The aluminized seems to last quite a while,so it may not be worth it to spend the extra $$$ for stainless.If you do go stainless,then get the 5 inch,so you won't have to upgrade and throw away money later on.
 

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just remove the factory air box and install the filter? do i need a 4" piece of pipe? does it stay dry up there? maybe order a outerware?
 

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Cold blue.Ive had a lot of different exhaust systems on my truck.I can tell you that a 4"system is more than adequete.And it is much easier to route over the axle,and by the spare tire. The 4" system does not impose a restriction until the 570HP mark. At that point a 5" system would be of benefit.Until then i preffer a 4" system. I had both on my truck,and at 490 RWHP,I swear the 4" system has better spool up and response as well as better power,IMO. I have nothing other than my seat of pants to back this up but others on the tdr have felt the same thing too.I have considered necking down my 5" to 4 and dynoing to see if i gain / or lose power. I would buy a stainless system if you have the $$ it isnt much more money.Also get the resonator if you dont like a drone in the cab,this is very important if you have 4.10 gears OR a 5speed with 3.54 or 4.10 gears,and cruise at 70+ mph regularly. Also when i ran a 12.26 at 109.25 i did it with a 4" exhaust system,the truck dynoed at 646RWHP with the single turbo,and doing the math of 7100lbs and the 12.26 it requires about 800hp to do get the truck to the end of the 1/4 mi that quick. So dont think a 4" system is nt enough.
 

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no, that is the conviction im looking for, and brand better than others? looking at bully dog 4" or the one that jegs sells, but i dont know who makes it. and at 299 for alum and 499 for stainless, and dont have to pay shipping..oh, looking at guages as well, and recommendations on brand, i know i have to run egt, boost, trans temp and fuel pressure.
 

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Installing the BHAF is easy.Disconnect the air intake hose from the airbox.Just yank the whole airbox straight up.Use a small piece of 4" steel or aluminum pipe,or even 4" PVC to make a little spacer to go on the inside of the BHAF.This will prevent the rubber outlet from collapsing and sliding off the intake hose.Slide the intake hose into the BHAF,and tighten the clamp.

I usually reinstall the airbox retaining nuts to cover the studs on the inner fender.The BHAF will just sit there,it will not move.It will not get wet either,even though it looks quite exposed.You can also make or buy a heat shield to protect and shield it from the heat coming off the turbo.

I don't use an outerwear,and the filter is still going strong two years later.It doesn't look quite as pretty,but it still works as good as new.
 

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thanks chris, all be getting the filter friday. hey one more question, does the silencer removed on the turbo hurt anything, i read a few things on that but all the say is a increase in turbo noise.i figured with the silencer removed it would create more of a turbulance before it enters the turbo, what do u think?
 

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Removing the silencer ring has no effect on power whatsoever,no loss,no gain.

Only benefit is the turbo sings a little louder. :D

Try the filter first,it will make the turbo a little louder.If you still want more,then pull the ring.

With the BHAF,no silencer ring,and a good exhaust,the turbo is pretty loud,like big rig loud.You may find it annoying after a while,so keep the ring handy,in case you want to kill the noise a bit.
 

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john, u recommended diesel dynamics for injectors but what about that fueling box? which one works the best? and at what point am i going to have to upgrade the pusher pump?
 

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cold blue , I highly recommend diesel dynamics injectors,they have an excellent balance of smoke/power.As for fueling boxes,when you go to the major fueling boxes that tap the pump wire,then you need to monitor fuel pressure,full time,IMO. At that time you need to have a pyrometer also,and trans work in most cases.Most trucks need just a few banjo bolts drilled or replaced,and a strong factory lift pump,and they are OK.A lot of the trucks have weak lift pumps and this is detriemental to power,and injector pump life.I recommend every 24V owner get the fuel pressure checked on there trucks with a temporary guage at least every 15000 miles if they dont have a guage.
 
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