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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After seeing the backdragging performance of our meyer ST-90, it is safe to say that we need a back drag edge. I am a decent welder, and am just wondering if anyone has one on their plow? It would be nice to build it myself, than pay 200 bucks for a factory piece. What is the ideal angle for the edge? Any pics and info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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If i were you iwould try and go to the dealer an take a look at one from the factory then just mimic it...
 

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Put a urethane cutting edge on it. Then you can have all of the benefits of them while plowing forward, and you won't need to add a back drag edge for plowing backward. :cool:
 

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I would not put a back drag blade on a meyers. The pivot pin tubes tend to brake off the plow.( I know first hand) My welder told me thats what would happen when he tried to talk me out of putting a back dragger on. I only made it through 2 storms.
What I would do is what BRL said or add 200 to 300 pounds of weight to the plow.
 

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I would definitely look into whether or not the blade would support it, like slplow said, he damaged his blade using one. I have a Fisher, and I would like to put a back drag blad on with a new cutting edge, but before I can do that I need to go through the blade and aframe to replace the pins, and tighten everthing up before I can even think about trying to find one or make one. If you can add wieght to your blade that will definitely help, and then you can take a little time to figure out a way to safely mount one. Nothing is impossible, that is why necesity is the mother of invention- I have done many things that I have been told are impossible- very successfully.

Bill
 

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BRL- does urethane help backdragging, too? Doesn't make sense to me, but I haven't used one. I have been considering one since my little 'impact' last snow, but I figured the wide contact surface wouldn't backdrag worth poop. Correct me.

Crimedog- if you're looking into urethane from one of these guys out east, let me know- maybe we can split shipping on a pair. Or if you find someone around here, let me know.
 

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Yes, the reason I suggested installing a urethane cutting edge instead of a back drag impliment to help with the back dragging problems mentioned, was because of how well they back drag. Leaves the lots clean as a whistle, even better than going forward actually. My first urethane edge was on an ST-90 as well.
 

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Do you have to add any wieght to the blade? I know most blades are pretty heavy, but I know the attack angle on my Fisher is pretty agressive going forward, I just wonder if it's too aggressive for back dragging with out some extra weight.
Maybe I should look into a urethane edge instead of a carbide edge when I replace it.


Bill
 

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ok, so should I wait a season to let my edge wear down? Is it a waste to just throw my new steel away- or is it that much better? Don't you need a worn steel edge to install the U-edge? If that's the case, I don't know of many people with a worn-out Pro-Plus cutting edge yet. It seems I remember bits and pieces about these things from... well- other sites, but I think it's time for my education.

Oh yeah- how much:cash are they?
 

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Actually the polyurethane edges work great for back dragging.
And as BRL said you will find it does clean really well while pulling the snow away from garage doors and parking areas.
You don't have to go out east for an edge either.
If you need info on edges just e-mail me.
:rolleyes: John............
 

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Bill,
I replied to your other urethane on a Fisher post, about plowing forward LOL. So I'll tell you here that you won't need to add anything to that plow after the urethane to have good back dragging performance.

EZ Snow,
IMO the urethane is that much better than steel that I had wasted a practically new steel edge to put urethane on one of my plows. I used that new edge as the washer for the urethane, so it wasn't a complete waste, just an expensive washer LOL. :rolleyes:
 

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BRL, What about the extra wieght of the U- edge along with the steel one for a washer, isn't that to much extra wieght on the truck?

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What makes the Urethane so much better at backdragging? Also, I guess I don't see where the backdrag blade would put more stress on the plow than adding a couple hundred pounds.

EZ Snow-I think that we are probably going to wait til next year, or at least till they come out with something for the 810. If you think you'll wait till next year, then we should definitely order together and save on shipping.
 

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The urethane is great at back dragging because of the same reasons it's great at front dragging LOL ?? I'm not an engineer so I can't explain the details, I just got to experience a great difference in back dragging when I put one on an ST 90 (and on other plows). I don't know what a back drag edge is, so I couldn't say why it shouldn't be installed on one either, except that slplow said he did & only got 2 storms out of it before the plow broke. But the weight of the urethane must be enough added weight instead of adding " a couple hundred pounds" to a plow. Plus all of the other benefits of a urethane edge make it a win win situation IMO.
 

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OK,I could see how a U-edge could scrape better,but once the snow builds up behind the blade,it forms a "ramp",and the blade just rides up,and no longer scrapes the ground.If the edge isn't touching the ground,it doesn't matter what you have,it won't scrape.

The whole purpose of a good backdrag edge is not to scrape,but to act as a wedge,and use the snow to force the plow down to the pavement,and stay there.Almost like plowing forward.It might not work as well as going forward,but it's it a good enough improvement to work for most backdragging requirements.
 

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Wyld- the one a friend has on his diamond starts with a similar wedge-effect to dig in, but its free-swinging- almost. when you start pulling on it, it digs in, then stands up. The travel is limited at just a few degrees over center- enough to lock it in place, but for all practical purposes, it's vertical. it scrapes very well. the backdrag edge holds the blade a few inches above the ground. An engineer I'm not, but it looks like the weight of the blade combined with the forces from the pulling creates a leverage effect that increases scraping ability... kinda cool, but it's on a diamond (made by meyer- ugh)
 

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I have one

i have a fisher 8' with a backdragger. as stateted above, mine pivots and "drags" when going forward. put the blade down and go backwards and it scrapes clean, usually better than going forward. the BD is 1/2" thick, and you've got 700lbs or so on top of that 1/2"w x 8' contact point. lots of psi.

if you do residentials IMO it's a must have, even spending $200 or so it will save you LOTS of time and help you do a better job. it's like having another club in your bag. you will find many uses.

there are some downsides tho, it's usually effective for a short distance (20-25') and if your not careful you will get stuck easier when stacking as the BD gets hung up in the piles sometimes (i got stuck my first try with it!) also if the BD is not properly designed, you can get lots of "chatter" with it (the BD flexing back and forth) sometimes this goes away with use as it wears in

as a machinist (and no personal exp with Uedges) i can't see how the material of the cutting edge will change the performance of backdragging. the attack angle on a plow is designed for going forward, and when going backwards the compliment angle is just too acute to be effective. thats why the BD work so good because there usually close to vertical (or past) with lots of psi at the contact patch.
 
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