I put on my 8' MM my truck and have to jump the solenoid to get the plow to lift or move to the sides, but it floated without jumping the solenoid. Is it a bad solenoid or adapter plug or what? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kyle.
RPM,Bill's post got me to reread your question,I was assuming you have power at your control in the cab?Does the light come on for your control?
If there is no power at the control get a test light and check for power on the red wire in the white 6 pin plug for the control harness,(with the ignition on)If nothing check the red wire from the middle of the contorl harnes running to your fuse box or in that neighborhood,is there juice to that?The MM1's had an inline fuse in that wire,check that,The MM2's have a fuse under the hood no more than 6 inches from the Isolation module,check that.
IF you have power at the red wire in the WHITE control plug(from your cab control)Take a jumper wire from the red to the #4 pin(i think it's white,it's the pin opposite the red,jump these 2 pins and you should hear the solenoid "click",no "click"-bad selenoid.However if it clicks,-Problem in your control.
What contorl do you have?I posted all this info(may not be neccesary)becasue i saw my first Fishstick controll go bad yesterday after sitting all summer and was put away in working order,i haven't heard of to many failures like that.
Like i said,this info is useless if you have power at the control,if that's the case,replace the solenoid.
If the plow will drop,or float,then I would assume your control is OK.Like the others have suggested,it's probably the relay.Good preventative maintenance so replace it every once and a while,and keep the old one for a spare (if it's still good).
The light on the control (in cab) does come on with ign. the solenoid does click when I move control up, dn l&r but on performs those actions with sol. jumped, however will float w/o jumping solenoid. I paln on replacing the solenoid and getting a spare. even when I jumped the sol. with a pair of channel locks it took a second to run the motor, if that helps diagnose. Thanks for the responses and keep 'em coming.
Great advice as usual Wyldman, I checked the pos. cable that goes to the sol. and it is loose and corroded where it crimps at the copper end to the battery. But it is still hot to the sol. if
I can jump it right.I will replace it for good measure. The truck has 2 day old 850 cca batteries ('95 psd)
The control will go into float without the relay clicking as all it is doing is energizing the 2-way check to drop the blade. If the Motor relay clicks when the lever is moved that means more than likely the motor relay needs to be replaced, especially if the motor runs with the terminals bridged.
I replaced the sol., no change, I think the click sound is now coming from the motor on the headgear. Could it be a bad coil or connector? Can still run the motor and lift the blade by jumping the sol. But won't run by the cab control.:headwall
Had a friends EZV plow last year give us fits. Turned out to be the Pos lead from the grill connector to the plow motor. The motor would click but not run. We checked and dbl checked the grounds but then I ran a cable from the out side of the solenoid to the pos lug on the motor, and hit the function on the controller and the plow worked fine. My friend replaced that lead the next day and he was all set. Just something to check out.
We used a jumper lead to get through the night.
The problem is solved, I took it to the dealer....well anyway when we replaced the batteries a couple of weeks ago a wire from the solenoid was put on the + terminal that should have been put on the - terminal so the sol. was not working correctly. I posted this feeling a little incompetent but hey, maybe someone in the future can learn from my mistake.....Just in time though, we are under a Winter Storm Watch for thunderstorms turning to thundersnow and 4-6" accumulations. Which is good for this area and 30 days earlier in the season than the last 2 years!!!plowing!