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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I have a Fisher HD series plow 4 port 3 plug. I installed a brand new motor near the of last season then after having issues with the plow holding pressure this season the dealer recommended I replace the manifold valve box because the relief valves in the old one were so rusted they couldn’t be adjusted or removed. So I purchased a brand new manifold and installed it last weekend after doing so the plow lifted and dropped perfectly, along with angling right but once I angled right and attempted to angle left there was no movement. I first started by trying to adjust both angle ram relief valves but no matter what I did I couldn’t get any left movement. When I hold the left function on the control the motor runs but nothing moves. I then went back to the dealer and they said I needed a new solenoid for S2 so I purchased one installed it and still no luck. When I swap the green and blue wires on S2 and S3 the right function will lift the plow the raise function will and right, lower will drop it but left function still only makes the motor runs no movement. I am reusing the valve cartridges from my old manifold they all worked in the old manifold to move the plow in all directions I was experiencing issues with the plow holding pressure but I believe that is unrelated to the valves and was do to the bad manifold box. Does anyone have any clue what’s going on? I feel like I’m running out of things to replace and don’t want to keep throwing money away buying parts I don’t need. I feel like a new S2 valve cartridge is the next logical thing to replace but since they are expensive I am hoping someone can shed some light on my problem and confirm what I need to do next. Please let me know what you think.
Thanks
 

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You’re saying it works when you swap the wires?
If so the problem isn’t at the valves.

2 high pressure relief circuits? usually that isn’t the case . one is the high pressure relief and the other one is usually the quill that controls the drop speed.

Took the valves out of the other valve body which I don’t know why the valve body would’ve been bad it’s usually the things attached to the valve body because the rusted high pressure relief and quill didn’t need to be adjusted as it worked before.

take the valves back out of it and clean them. work them by hand . see if there’s any debris inside of them and clean them out well , then inspect all O-rings.

And make sure its full of fluid.

I’m sure that’ll be one or two other guys that will come along to critique my ideas and to help you good luck
 

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I’m sure that’ll be one or two other guys that will come along to critique my ideas and to help you good luck
You rang?

2 high pressure relief circuits? usually that isn’t the case . one is the high pressure relief and the other one is usually the quill that controls the drop speed.
That plow actually has 3 relief valves - 2 for the angle rams and 1 for pump pressure
 

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First things first, put all the wires back to the way they were.

Then, confirm that you put the hoses back in the proper location after F'ing around with it and confirm that you have the correct wires on the correct coils.

Triangle Parallel Font Auto part Technical drawing

Auto part Engineering Cylinder Font Parallel

Rectangle Font Slope Parallel Pattern
 

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Don't replace any more valves yet.

S2 is required to angle right and S3 is required to raise. S2 & S3 are both required to angle left.
If the plow is raising and lowering correctly, S3 is working. If the plow is angling right, S2 is working. So if nothing is happening at all when you angle left, it means either something is physically stopping it or the 2 valves aren't getting powered at the same time for some reason.

When you bought the valve manifold, did you get the one with all the valves in it or did you transfer everything over from your old one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You’re saying it works when you swap the wires?
If so the problem isn’t at the valves.

Thanks for the reply but no, when I swap the wires on S2 and S3 the green and blue I still don’t have any left movement. But when I swapped the wires the raise function on the controller made it move right and the right button made it raise. Based on this I thought it indicated a bad valve because if the info I have is correct when S1 is activated the plow lowers when S3 is activated the plow lifts when S2 is activated the plow turns right and when S2 and S3 are activated at the same time the plow turns left. If this is correct my thinking was that the way the plow acted when I swapped the wires on S2 and S3 indicated S2 valve isn’t opening correctly because both the lift and right angle functions both still worked the controls were just backwards on the controller and there was still no left movement. I don’t know if I'm correct or not but based on the research I have done that made the most sense because it confirms the solenoids are good but I could be completely wrong idk I’m new to plow mechanics and know you can’t trust everything you read so am just looking for other opinions before I go to the dealer and buy a $170 valave that I may or may not actually need. Thanks again for your response please let me know what you think about the valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don't replace any more valves yet.
When you bought the valve manifold, did you get the one with all the valves in it or did you transfer everything over from your old one?
Thanks for the reply, the valve manifold I purchased was just the manifold assembly not the full assembly with new coils and valve cartridges. I purchased part number 22150-1
I originally was going to purchase the full assembly with coils and valve cartridges included but I was unable to find it instock and was going to have to wait for fisher to ship it to the dealer. They estimated 5-7 business days for the full assembly to arrive. But since there was a chance of snow later in the week i decided in the moment to purchase the assembly they had on hand and reuse the valve cartridges and coils from the old box thinking they were working correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Took the valves out of the other valve body which I don’t know why the valve body would’ve been bad it’s usually the things attached to the valve body because the rusted high pressure relief and quill didn’t need to be adjusted as it worked before.

take the valves back out of it and clean them. work them by hand . see if there’s any debris inside of them and clean them out well , then inspect all O-rings.

And make sure its full of fluid.

I’m sure that’ll be one or two other guys that will come along to critique my ideas and to help you good luck
Thanks for the advice I’ll take everything out, clean and inspect it today.
To answer you question to why the valve box was bad ill explain how this whole headache began. It started with my plow suddenly not holding pressure and drifting to an angle when I was pushing snow. So at the time I thought the relief valves may need adjustment. Thinking back now it doesn’t make sense they wouldn’t be tightened correctly if no one ever loosened them but that’s what I believed at the time. So I proceed to adjust the relief valves and 2 out of the 3 were rusted to the point they wouldn’t move. I tried everything I could think of to break them free. I soaked them in PB blaster multiple times and tried a few other tricks I read online
To break them free but still nothing worked. So after failing for days at getting them to move I thought I might have some luck if I disconnected the manifold and turned it on it’s side and let pb soak on it for a few days then try to turn them at a verticals angle where I would have better leverage. But when I was attempting to unscrew the box from the reservoir I broke 3 out of the 4 screws inside the manifold. So I thought it would be a brilliant idea to drill them out. Im not sure if any damage was actually caused or not when drilling the bolts out but after my idea of soaking the relief valves for a few days failed I went to my local dealer with the box looking for advice and they told me I should just replace it. They told me that it wasn’t worth anymore time because it was possible the valves were seized to the point they will never come out and they also thought damage could of been caused when drilling the bolts out and there was no way to know for certain weather or not it did.
 

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While going to the left, have you used a test light to actually verify that you are in fact getting a signal to the 2 coils from the controller while pressing left? Remove the positive wire going to the motor so the motor don't run during the testing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
While going to the left, have you used a test light to actually verify that you are in fact getting a signal to the 2 coils from the controller while pressing left? Remove the positive wire going to the motor so the motor don't run during the testing.
Thanks for replying, yes I have verified the the 2 coils are receiving a signal when the left is pushed. I have checked and double checked all electrical connections and verified they are all working properly. Therefore I don’t believe that my problem is related to electrical but thank you for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Don't replace any more valves yet.

S2 is required to angle right and S3 is required to raise. S2 & S3 are both required to angle left.
If the plow is raising and lowering correctly, S3 is working. If the plow is angling right, S2 is working. So if nothing is happening at all when you angle left, it means either something is physically stopping it or the 2 valves aren't getting powered at the same time for some reason.

What could be physically stopping it? I have confirmed with a multimeter that both valves are getting powered at the same time when the left bottom is pushed. Both coils become magnetized and should be shifting the valves but I am still having the same issue. What could be blocking the hydraulic fluid from flowing in a brand new manifold? I have verified there are no obstructions in the Hydraulic lines, fitting and rams by swapping my passenger and drivers side hose. When I did that the right bottom turn the plow left perfectly but the left bottom still had no action. That makes me think the issue is within the valve manifold but it’s a brand new unit so I’m not sure what can be preventing the flow. I have since swapped my hoses back to the correct connections but am still at a loss of what can possibly be making my system malfunction. Do you have any recommendations for what I need to be looking for?
This is the first time I have ever replaced a valve manifold myself. All that I have done to the new unit is adjust the pressure relief valves to what the manual recommends and adjust the quill to adjust the drop speed. I haven’t touched any other valves or plugs but I know there are multiple on the unit. The directions that came with the new manifold only specified the adjustments the needed to be made to the pressure relief valves therefore I only touched those. Is it possible any of the other valves need adjustment? I am not sure what the function of the other valves are but when you mentioned there may be something blocking the fluid from flowing made me think one of the other valves is out of adjustment. Would it be a bypass check valve or poppet check valve in the new unit? Please let me know what you think.
Thanks
Ben
 

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What could be physically stopping it? I have confirmed with a multimeter that both valves are getting powered at the same time when the left bottom is pushed. Both coils become magnetized and should be shifting the valves but I am still having the same issue. What could be blocking the hydraulic fluid from flowing in a brand new manifold? I have verified there are no obstructions in the Hydraulic lines, fitting and rams by swapping my passenger and drivers side hose. When I did that the right bottom turn the plow left perfectly but the left bottom still had no action. That makes me think the issue is within the valve manifold but it’s a brand new unit so I’m not sure what can be preventing the flow. I have since swapped my hoses back to the correct connections but am still at a loss of what can possibly be making my system malfunction. Do you have any recommendations for what I need to be looking for?
This is the first time I have ever replaced a valve manifold myself. All that I have done to the new unit is adjust the pressure relief valves to what the manual recommends and adjust the quill to adjust the drop speed. I haven’t touched any other valves or plugs but I know there are multiple on the unit. The directions that came with the new manifold only specified the adjustments the needed to be made to the pressure relief valves therefore I only touched those. Is it possible any of the other valves need adjustment? I am not sure what the function of the other valves are but when you mentioned there may be something blocking the fluid from flowing made me think one of the other valves is out of adjustment. Would it be a bypass check valve or poppet check valve in the new unit? Please let me know what you think.
Thanks
Ben
Take the hose off just the right cylinder only and stick it in a bucket. Then try to angle left. That will tell you if the problem is a lack of flow getting to the RT cylinder or if the problem is the LT cylinder not releasing to allow the fluid back into the tank. It still won't tell you what the specific problem is but will help narrow things done.
 
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