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Ok the headlights on my 2000 F250 are sad at best, The light from them is so dim that it is hard to see while driving, When I hit the brights it shines more area but a dimmer light. It has been bad as long as I have had it but am fed up with it.

I have a 2002 Explorer and man...nice bright white light and high beams, oh man talk about light!!

The light on the truck is yellow and basically crap.

So is there different bulbs I can get? some kind of high intensity light. I NEED MORE POWER!!!!


Thanks
 

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I have found the Sylvania Silverstars to be the best bulb out there,and the price isn't bad either.

The bulbs will help,but to really increase the output power,try wiring up headlamp relays,with some bigger wire.The extra voltage now available to the bulbs really make them bright.
 

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GreenQuest Lawn,

There are a few things you can do;)

1- Like Chris said, try some Sylvania Silverstars or similar bulbs(~$30). I have had Zenon Superwhites in mine for about 2 years. They have a "whiter" light and make it better, but it is still not great:(

2- You can upgrade to APC Projector headlights(~$300) or the newer style stock headlights 2002+(~$300). I have driven a truck with both and they are better, but again, still not great:headwall

3- Or you can get a Brite Box(~$85) What they do is keep the low beams on also when you have the high beams on. I have been meaning to get one for awhile and keep forgetting:scramble You can test if you would like it by pulling back on the turn signal lever and holding it. When you do that, both High and low beams are on.

You can pick up Brite Boxes or APC Projectors at GOS Racing
 

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Not sure if this helps, but are the lenses for your lights fogged up. We have had that problem on some squad cars at work, and found that buffing them cleared them up, it made a huge difference in the light output.

John
 

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My 2003 has the "jewel effect" headlamps. Whoop-dee-do!! But they are decent as far as light output. I just re-aimed them, I was getting the brites from everyone, unloaded. Add 850# sand and it was just plain rude!! Anyway, they do have an adequate light pattern, and the fogs really fill out nicely. These lights would be a good upgrade.

I mentioned the siming to ask this: is it common to have to re-aim headlights on a brand-new vehicle? I still get the brites from those folks who flash because trucks (and even more... S-U-Vs) scare them... they just get my brites back. Man- I miss the KC's I had on my chebby... triggered off the high-beams "brites? you think those are brites? look at THIS!!"omg
 

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I put the PIAA Super Whites in mine and it made an un-beleaveable difference. I did the test on the garage, ya know old vs. new and the super whites were much brighter and crisper. I paid 80.00 for them but they were worth it.
 

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Heres a test I did. There is a problem with a voltage drop on the Ford SuperDuties headlight circuit. This is a 2001 F-250.

STOCK BULBS truck running inside shop

Battery voltage 14.39
Voltage at lamp socket 12.68
Current 1 low beam 4.5A
Light brightness at 10ft 2830 LUX

Rewired lamp thru 30A relay, fused, and 12G wire directly to battery

Battery voltage 14.39
Voltage at lamp socket 14.28
Current 4.5A
Light brightness at 10ft 3770 LUX

Next we tried SYLVANIA 9007ST Silver Star lamps

Stock wiring setup

Battery voltage 14.38
Voltage at lamp socket 12.69
Current 5.0A
Light brightness at 10ft 3100 LUX


Rewired lamp thru 30A relay,fused,and 12G wire directly to battery


Battery voltage 14.39
Voltage at lamp socket 14.30
Current 5.0A
Light brightness at 10ft 4580 LUX

So I think you all can see, the higher output of the Silverstar replacement lamps (or any other lamp upgrade for that matter) will really not be noticed untill you improve the wiring. There is a voltage drop on the stock wiring of almost 2 volts at the lamp socket. Any of the aftermarket relay/harness kits would work, or you can make your own for under $10.00.
*********************************************************************
 

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CPSS

can you give me a brief description on how that is done. My old SD the lamp harness melted over time with the after market bulbs installed, thus proving what you have said. They drew too much voltage, I would like to do the re-wiring.

Thanks

Frank:)
 

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I only did the low beams, so if you want the high beams thru a relay, you will need 2 of each.

I used a 30 amp, 12V relay we had in the shop. NAPA sells a black cube relay rated at 20A. That will work. Take a 12G wire, connect a 20A fuse holder and fuse, and run to battery +. This wire connects to one of the normally open contacts of the relay. The other NO contact goes to the new headlight sockets low beam + terminal with 12G wire. The original low beam + wire runs to one side of the relay coil. The other side of the relay coil goes to ground.

When you turn on the headlights, the 12v pulls in the coil of the relay, closing the contacts, allowing 12v from the battery to flow directly to the headlights, bypassing the crappy original wiring.
 

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Wyldmans been doing that on the Dodges for quite a while. I like the idea and am doing it on a 3500 that keeps burning up the switch. After reading this I think the Ford is getting more relays and wires......as if it didn't have enough already. CPSS thanks for the data. Jerre
 
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