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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys....I have a few gravel driveways that I plow....I find they tend to be a pain in the ***!!
Should you push or drag?

I have found that if I push, I dig the heck out of some and not others......wealthy town with a lot of pea stone driveways with cobblestones at the very ends........

Any suggestions as to not tick off the customers?
 

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Do a search on urethane products. They have been great for our gravel drives, and pavers. They cost a little more up front, but save you a lot of headaches in the long run for those types of situations, as well as doing a great job on regular blacktop as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gotchaa.....

What is the cost of something like that for an 8 foot Fisher?
And on the other hand.......what is the cost of a steel blade for that same unit?

I just bought the trcuk on Friday and it;s a little worn already after the past 56 hour storm..
How often should the blade be replaced and what is the determining factor?

Lot's of questions.....sorry to be such a rook.......but you gotta start somewhere, right?

BTW...
I just bought a 1985 Ford F-250 with the full plow set-up.
Any idea on what I should have paid for her?

She has 104K on a 351 Cleveland , sprayed bedliner, vinyl bed cover, American Racing Mags, Oversized Tires, New paint Job, Tinted Windows, great overall shape.If anyone can help me on this.......I'd appreciate the helpful info.
I'm looking to get into something with an extended cab that can carry the kiddos.....just couldn't find one on such short notice.
With the GD storm coming and all!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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The urethane is going to start around $200 for a real bargain, to around $300 normal prices, depending on shipping. That is probably about double the price of steel, but it does last longer than steel, so in the end the cost is really not that much higher, if at all.
 

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jonathanethan, it's really hard to tell what your truck is worth. But if I was buying something like that to plow with - around $1500. Most of what you listed is of no use for plowing. One thing you want to do is exchange those tires for some skinny ones - better traction.

Can you post a picture?
 

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8' steel edges run $ 70.00 at local Fisher dealer thats a lot less than 50 % of a u edge more like 25% of a u edge
 

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I have a couple gravel drives myself, they suck! I tend to hang the blade and what's left over stays. It's either that or send a skidsteer back in the spring to back drag the piles.
 

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Yes, true enough for that edge. We have been buying v plow edges for over $100, so that is where I was coming from.


I think there are many grades of steel edges folks are using around the country as well, from very cheap soft stuff to carbides, so the prices are probably all over the place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the input...

I had heard the skinnier tires were much better.....I'll take your advice there. All cleaned up....... this truck shows well. I live South of Boston so there is a real shortage of plow trucks for sale down here......I paid more than that, but, after pricing the cost of a new Fisher setup(4000.00), I thought the whole package was a good deal.
I also believe I can turn it around and get my money back on it. Only problem........I'll be stuck without a plow truck. My luck, I sell it, it snows! Always the way....RIGHT??
But, now that i get it home....you find out all the littel things that the knucklehead never fixed...washer fluid pump, new wiper blades, back taillight fixture. Had tio adjust the pump a few times over the course of the first 4 hours....

now it's seems to be making a kluncking noice in the left front tire.......had it for five minutes.......then it went away?? I know that can't be a good thing....any ideas?> I'm guessing the universal joint.

I feel like I'm back in High sschool with my old 69 Chevy Chevelle!

Another issue.......I was told the front breaks were just done, but I still get a squishy peddle for the breaks....I actually lost the peddle coming into a rotary .......not a good thing. I've been told a good bleed shold fix that. True?
Any other suggestions, besides buying a new truck.
I'm looking for that tooo!
Thanks for the help!!!!!


JE
 

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as stated lifting the plow is a common choice, one that i've used. however i find that using the shoes adjusted a little lower than the edge works even better.....and quicker

my pedal on my ford is a little soft too. i think its inherent in these trucks. but i dont think you should be losing a pedal. i'd be curious how you only lost them once and the pedal came back.
 

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All I plow is gravel (none commercial) I find leave the shoes at a high setting for the first storm, let that pack then take the shoes off.

I cheat some times and leave the shoes off the first storm and try to lift the blade a bit, makes for a mess.

Ken
 

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I have three drives that are gravel. I back drag them until the ground freezes. Then plow like normal.

Everett
 

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Most of my accounts are gravel driveways, but with some practice, you could get good at it. It do take me awhile to get used to it and get the feeling out of it, just got to keep your hand on the controller at all times when plowing as to "bump" the blade up or down. Try to keep the blade right above the gravel Also try not to angle your plow fully to either side as this will help reduce one end of plow digging into gravel. Once ground is completely frozen, it is much easier to plow but you still should be careful.
 

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gravel drives

I have 2 gravel drives and they are sloped . one is gravel/busted up pavement . I dont like plowing them its usually nasty even after a hard freeze . I keep them because I work with these people :( I agree with Stephen- Dont angle your blade
 

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Before u edges we would drop the plow and then raise it 2 " or so and plow the gravel. With the u edges we just drop and go. 95% of the time it is real smooth, if we still get hop or chatter, I raise the plow just enough to put tension on the chain, and that helps alot as well.
Dino
 
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