Snowplow Forums banner

61 - 80 of 81 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
622 Posts
nsmilligan said:
Here's the update, after talking with the dealer, and rep:

The dealer forgot my truck is a 3500, when he first talked to the rep, GM rep said NO warranty, it was from over loading the truck, and NOT the front from the plow, but the cracking is caused by overloading on the REAR:huh
The dealer called him back and explained the mistake, after all thats why I bought a 3500, they will cover the REPAIR under warranty.
Anyways the rep will be here next week and wants to look at the truck.
When I talk to the rep I'm going to ask that it be reported to Transport Canada Vehicle safety branch, after all what would happen if the frame broke on the road?:eek:
So you guys that have 2500's and carry a spreader, GM wouldn't warranty the repair:mad: Funny the frames are identical:rolleyes:

Bill
I see alot of 2500 owners with spreaders in their trucks.I see new car GM dealers selling sno packages with 2500's equiped with plows & spreaders . I bet the average guy dont even know about these warranty quirks or cracks, but shouldnt the GM dealers ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,804 Posts
BRUNSWICK CONCRETE said:
Dont all of you guys find it a weird place ,for the cracks to happen in that location ? Is this a problem due to hydroforming the front frame ? Or is it a designed weak or crush zone area in the frame for a frontal crash ?
Not at all, same place my Dodges broke. Seems to just be a point where there is a lot of stress between the front and back of the truck, almost a fulcrum. You have the plow, engine and then the rest of the truck behind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
979 Posts
nsmilligan said:
Is this a reg cab or extended cab, long wheel base? it seems to be hit or miss as to which trucks have gussets. If I remember the chassis cabs weren't availible with 137" wheelbase of the reg cab, so maybe it's only reg cabs that are missing the gusset.

Bill
Mine is an extended cab short box. The gussets are about 2.5" x 3" in size. Maybe we should do some kind of poll and see who has and don't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,264 Posts
Mark Oomkes said:
Joey, I think I stated earlier in this thread but maybe not, GM has been having this problem since the late 80's. If they haven't addressed it in almost 20 years, I don't think they're going to. The dealer by us was warrantying them for one frame, 2500 or 3500, after that GM was not paying, didn't matter what age the truck was or how many miles. And this was for a company with a fleet of 20+ trucks.
Trucks like mine crack in the same place but the older solid axle trucks had issues with the steering box area of the frame. hey make a repair kit for it to solve it, not GM though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,264 Posts
BRUNSWICK CONCRETE said:
Dont all of you guys find it a weird place ,for the cracks to happen in that location ? Is this a problem due to hydroforming the front frame ? Or is it a designed weak or crush zone area in the frame for a frontal crash ?
Designed weak I think when a plow is used. It curves to much in that area and combine that with the way the plow frames only attach to the front of the rails and the front crossmember it creates a lever action on the rail, breaking it. I would say a 1/4 strip of steel 2in wide wellded on top of the rails over the whole wheel well area would solve it. It would need to run back to the cab.
Or they could use better mounts like Fisher used on the conventional mounts for the older 88 and up GM' with IFS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Here's an update, had the truck to the welding shop today, likely because I plowed with it cracked during the Easter Blizzard, the frame is almost broken in 2, with several smaller cracks around the upper control arm mount. Anyways the engine has to come out and the front diff dropped in order to repair it, also they may have to cut the right diff bracket off the frame as the crack goes behind it, and re attach it, they are also going to re-enforce the left side even though there's no sign of cracking. I'd rather have the repair then a new frame, it will be stronger then OEM. I'll try to get some pics when the engines out:popcorn2

Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
The repair is underway, the frame is just about broken in 2. The cracks runs down the inside of the frame, just behind the battery cable, and in front of the pasenger exhaust shield. They are removing the right suspension, front housing and mounts in order to properly weld it. The dealership has booked 1 tech for the week to work on it.:popcorn2

Bill
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,264 Posts
I am glad they are willing to fix this and cover it but I can't say I would be happy with that repair. How is that repair plate going to help resale value of the truck? They should have installed a new frame with a simple strap welded on top of the frame rails and on the bottom. Ford did this on the older F series cab and chassis trucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Put lots of undercoating and hope the prospective buyer doesn't notice. I'd never buy a truck with a plow on it unless the price was quite good for exactly that reason.

As for the frame, I wouldn't put out a lot of hope for them making it thicker. I work at a tier 1 supplier as a transfercase engineer and work with the OEMs all of the time. Cost reduction is everything today. Hydroformed frames are stronger, but thinner. The don't do it to make a better truck, they did it to save a few pounds of steel. My concern is that the thinner steel may be less durable over time as corrosion sets in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,486 Posts
When I was dickering on a truck last week the dealer I am dealing with said they have never heard of a cracking issue on any trucks. So we went and saw the service dept. All the folks there knew nothing of cracked frames.:rolleyes:

Told me right there that they were lying through there teeth. Any GM employee who hasn't heard of frame cracking is obviously full of crap. BTW, Dealer was Quirk Chevrolet, one of the largest in Maine and Mass.:witch
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
I think the dealers as a whole tend to keep their head in the sand, or at least portray that.

Had a couple a few years back tell me they had never heard of Dmax injector problems:eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
610 Posts
well i guess im a gluttin for agravation but just bought a 94 k3500
drw dump 20 k miles show piece only problem the front tow hook horns ane cracked from having a 9.5v fisher on the front and i guess the brackets
wernt supported or became loss (not fisher bashing) anyway the dealer want $1100.00 to plate it i fiqure i can do it my selF.i have some experience
and do own a 220 welder what steel should i use 3/16 or 1/4 seem like 3/16 might be easier to work with

JR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,381 Posts
Might as well use the 3/16 since your weld is only as strong as the thinnest material anyhow. The frame is 3/16 had they used 1/4 there would be no crack issues :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
610 Posts
the guy that tows for us has a 88 k3500 tow truck over the weekend the frame broke behind the cab on the drivers side. did gm offer a repair kit
back in the 90's if so any info on part number . unfortunatly the guy just put 6 grand into the body and doesnt want to scrap the truck.

JR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,632 Posts
Discussion Starter #79
No actual repair kit was avail for them. Behind the cab cracks usually were from overloading and the best fix was to drop the tank and break out the welder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,442 Posts
No actual repair kit was avail for them. Behind the cab cracks usually were from overloading and the best fix was to drop the tank and break out the welder.
Ditto to what J said no kit just make plates and weld her up.. Next let him know a 3500 series wrecker is not a good idea way to light for todays work.
 
61 - 80 of 81 Posts
Top