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2001 F250 Super Duty
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
E60 pump... old as dirt .. cleaned it out and resealed it last year.. The plow rod for the up and down was pitted, so I replaced that as well. The bleeder on top was stripped out, so instead of doing the job right... better .. I chose to put a helicoil in it and a bolt... I figured if I needed to blead it, I would just loosen the bolt. Keep in mind, I had not done anything to it for years, well.. ever... so I figured it was time .. Now this year, I seem to have all sorts of issues

The coupler to the right angle went bad and was goo gusseling blue fluid all over. Replaced both the female and male ends.. Shortly ... really short.. the blade locked to the left ... It would jerk a little... like it wanted to go but it wouldn't.. like it was binding..

Of course I took a jumper wire, checked the coil, and it was magnetic... and heard a click. I then loosen the bolt on top, thinking it was air locked ... because I lost all the fluid in the line... and that did not work... tried to physically move it .. in matter of fact put the plow against a tree and pushed ... that did not work

So not sure how to test the crossover pressure relief valve on the side.. so I just went ahead and replaced it... because the other valve seemed to be working... Now of course before I did all of this I attempted to pull the coil and pressure valve out, I touched the nut on the nut of top of the C valve and snapped it off ... So that might need to be replaced now... (I did not touch the valve body when I resealed the pump last year)

So I replaced the crossover valve on the side... and it still did the same thing ... plow acted like it wanted to turn and it wouldn't...like it was binding

So still believing the pressure valve was working, I picked the plow up and undid the line that goes to the right cylinder ... and I could easily move it ... although at first pull it did not move... I had to go to the left side and give it a push

I have put the line back on, and refilled the system... and it is working ... Maybe I had crap caught in the line or ice?

Or something else? What is your opinion? bad cylinder(s) Maybe the left on is twinked a little and binding .. or ice .. Have you ever come across the bleeding issue if you changed couplers .. This has gone on for a week... you would had thought the air lock would have worked it's way out by Mr. mean ol gravity...

Currently I have bought a new top and bleeder assembly, as well as a pressure valve .. The outside of the cylinder hoses are falling apart... maybe it is a bad hose

The next question I have is how do you get the coil off the top of the pressure valve... I have tried to pull the off with pliers and pry it off... but there is nothing to pry on .. it is stuck on there... I would like to replace all that...
 

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E60 pump... old as dirt .. cleaned it out and resealed it last year.. The plow rod for the up and down was pitted, so I replaced that as well. The bleeder on top was stripped out, so instead of doing the job right... better .. I chose to put a helicoil in it and a bolt... I figured if I needed to blead it, I would just loosen the bolt. Keep in mind, I had not done anything to it for years, well.. ever... so I figured it was time .. Now this year, I seem to have all sorts of issues

The coupler to the right angle went bad and was goo gusseling blue fluid all over. Replaced both the female and male ends.. Shortly ... really short.. the blade locked to the left ... It would jerk a little... like it wanted to go but it wouldn't.. like it was binding..

Of course I took a jumper wire, checked the coil, and it was magnetic... and heard a click. I then loosen the bolt on top, thinking it was air locked ... because I lost all the fluid in the line... and that did not work... tried to physically move it .. in matter of fact put the plow against a tree and pushed ... that did not work

So not sure how to test the crossover pressure relief valve on the side.. so I just went ahead and replaced it... because the other valve seemed to be working... Now of course before I did all of this I attempted to pull the coil and pressure valve out, I touched the nut on the nut of top of the C valve and snapped it off ... So that might need to be replaced now... (I did not touch the valve body when I resealed the pump last year)

So I replaced the crossover valve on the side... and it still did the same thing ... plow acted like it wanted to turn and it wouldn't...like it was binding

So still believing the pressure valve was working, I picked the plow up and undid the line that goes to the right cylinder ... and I could easily move it ... although at first pull it did not move... I had to go to the left side and give it a push

I have put the line back on, and refilled the system... and it is working ... Maybe I had crap caught in the line or ice?

Or something else? What is your opinion? bad cylinder(s) Maybe the left on is twinked a little and binding .. or ice .. Have you ever come across the bleeding issue if you changed couplers .. This has gone on for a week... you would had thought the air lock would have worked it's way out by Mr. mean ol gravity...

Currently I have bought a new top and bleeder assembly, as well as a pressure valve .. The outside of the cylinder hoses are falling apart... maybe it is a bad hose

The next question I have is how do you get the coil off the top of the pressure valve... I have tried to pull the off with pliers and pry it off... but there is nothing to pry on .. it is stuck on there... I would like to replace all that...
All couplers are not the same. You should always change Both the male and female sides of the couplers with the same brand, as some have balls and some pins. Also hoses should always be in good working condition with no issues at all, as there is a lot of pressure in them. You always need a good working filler plug with a good working check ball in it. When you extend the ram up to lift the plow, then lower the plow, the fluid goes back into the reservoir and needs air to do this, which it gets from that filler plug. If your angle cylinders are not leaking fluid, then they are more than likely good. If you connect both angle cylinders together and raise the plow, you should be able to move the plow to the right and the left with ease, which would eliminate any cylinder problem. Pull the 2 filters out of the front of the Power Pack and check for contaminated fluid? Either clean them with brake clean, or replace them if dirty. You may have a bad "B" or "C" valve also. The "A" valve is only used to lower the plow. Also, you need to always start the season with new plow fluid-----which includes draining the angle cylinders, for which most do not do. I don't know what you mean by the coil off the pressure valve? The only coils are on the A, B, and C, valves.
 

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2001 F250 Super Duty
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks... I have the thing working right now ... so I will do all of this when I put it away for the season. I am going to add new hoses and admittingly enough I have NEVER drained the cylinders ... Ill pull those and stand them up to let them drain... and put it back together for the fall... I have a ton of new parts that need to be installed in the pump
 

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You don't need to pull the cylinders off to drain them. If you have 2 hoses that stay with the plow, you can leave the plow attached to the truck, and put couplers on each end of the hoses leaving them open and stick the ends into a bucket, and with the plow raised, just angle the plow back and forth by hand left and right, and the fluid will drain into the bucket. Keep doing it until all the fluid is drained, and remove the coupler ends, and drain the Power Pack. Refill with new fluid and reconnect the angle hoses. This is the easiest way to drain the cylinders. Good luck.
 
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