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You need to get a continuous duty solenoid not a starter solenoid. They over heat and wear the parts internally out and dont shut off or turn on properly. Your looking at 20-30 bucks for a good continuous duty solenoid.. The guy who rebuilt my salt spreader motor gave me one for 30 bucks and said it will hold up to the abuse of constant power going through it.. I dont remember what brand it was but i think it might have been a Bosch...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
looks like my original thoughts were right. I'll be picking up a few of these.
 

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Thanks Kentucky, I used your link to order a couple myself. Thanks Cor, I read all through the Trombetta solenoids, finally noticed "contactors" and found what I was looking for. Strange I've always heard them called solenoids, perhaps that's just what I'm familiar with due to working with solenoid valves in plumbing/appliance applications.
 

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I think it stems from starter motors. The attached solenoids are both a solenoid and relay. Then ford moved the relay to the firewall and it stuck....

I don't know.......
 

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Thanks Kentucky, I used your link to order a couple myself. Thanks Cor, I read all through the Trombetta solenoids, finally noticed "contactors" and found what I was looking for. Strange I've always heard them called solenoids, perhaps that's just what I'm familiar with due to working with solenoid valves in plumbing/appliance applications.
Kentucky and others, I just want to report back about the Trombetta "contactors". I got two of the one called the bear. Just to have on hand because they always die.

Well, recently my dump body wouldn't go up. No click, nothing. Worked fine in the evening, next morning nothing. I shoveled out the sand and finally got it up. Here is a size comparison of what was in there (has a picture of a bear, don't be fooled) and the big "Bear" from Trombetta.



It "bearly" fit, but I installed it and all is well!! :grinz And by doing it myself, I saved some :cash .

My wife says I have so much grease on my head it looks like I'm trying to dye my hair black. She said I need a shower, but I told her it will all come off on my pillow..........:rolleyes:
 

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Tileman's Boys
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make sure you run the ground all the way to the battery and it should last a long time and i cant stress enuff GROUND TO BATTERY
 

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make sure you run the ground all the way to the battery and it should last a long time and i cant stress enuff GROUND TO BATTERY
Oh man, long way to the battery. I used the factory ground with the ring connector to the mounting screw. The other end was to the small stud opposite the small switch post.

Too darn bad I respect you guys so much I'll probably have to run a special ground wire. And I thought I was home free! :eek:
 

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Tileman's Boys
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just remeber were all your ground originate from the batt so what a better place to go for ground
 

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" Question "
I normally do Run straight to the - on the battery, But I noticed my hoist on the dump is mounted to the frame, the batteries which set right next to the hoist are of course grounded to the frame but only about a foot of distance between both ground points.
Came this way from Monroe !
What would you guys do? Still run direct to the battery, The positive cable is only 24" long probabley oh say #6.
 

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Tileman's Boys
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" Question "
I normally do Run straight to the - on the battery, But I noticed my hoist on the dump is mounted to the frame, the batteries which set right next to the hoist are of course grounded to the frame but only about a foot of distance between both ground points.
Came this way from Monroe !
What would you guys do? Still run direct to the battery, The positive cable is only 24" long probabley oh say #6.
I can tell you that copper and lead are better conductors then a rusty steel frame:wink
 

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A large steel frame can be a better conductor than most battery cables.It's way larger,and will carry more current.

Where the problems arise is when things get rusty or corroded,then you add resistance to the circuit due to the faulty connection(s).If you keep the connections clean and well protected,then using the frame is NOT an issue at all.

The other thing you have to remember when grounding to the chassis or frame is do you you have a complete circuit back to the battery ? If your running 300 amps back to the frame from a motor,you better have a connection from the frame to battery negative terminal that will support is as well.
 

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I know this may not be the forom for this but since where on this whole subject, I might as well ask.
I want to get a buyers electric gate spreader. I have a salt dogg 2 yd, every once in a while obviousley the batteries get to low with heavy use, ( kill the lights let it catch back up, Know big deal ) 145 amp. alternator, got duel batteries.
Would you guys reccomend tripleing up on the batteries, or add another alternator to help compensate for all the additional use of juice ?
I'm still trying to get over this whole cross over from Hydralic systems here.
 

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Tileman's Boys
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A large steel frame can be a better conductor than most battery cables.It's way larger,and will carry more current.

Where the problems arise is when things get rusty or corroded,then you add resistance to the circuit due to the faulty connection(s).If you keep the connections clean and well protected,then using the frame is NOT an issue at all.

The other thing you have to remember when grounding to the chassis or frame is do you you have a complete circuit back to the battery ? If your running 300 amps back to the frame from a motor,you better have a connection from the frame to battery negative terminal that will support is as well.
and if you take the frame out of the equation its not a problem dont argue with common since no more screwing around with it and haveing to maitain clean connecttions and i know of other people tyhat will disagree too
 

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I know this may not be the forom for this but since where on this whole subject, I might as well ask.
I want to get a buyers electric gate spreader. I have a salt dogg 2 yd, every once in a while obviousley the batteries get to low with heavy use, ( kill the lights let it catch back up, Know big deal ) 145 amp. alternator, got duel batteries.
Would you guys reccomend tripleing up on the batteries, or add another alternator to help compensate for all the additional use of juice ?
I'm still trying to get over this whole cross over from Hydralic systems here.
:feedback

Maybe everyone over looked my last post!
 
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