Aux. Rear Bumper
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Westin or someone does make those shorty step tube inserts but they don't protect the entire width of the rear.
I have one on my truck now that I fabricated. When camping season ends I switch to an aux bumper that fits into the 2" receiver. A visit to the steel yard and $10 got me 2'x3" thickwall box tubing cut to my required length. I cut/shaped metal end caps, filled it with sand (for extra weight) and welded them in place. Then I welded it to the underside of a ball mount just behind where the ball/nut attaches. The ball mount is inserted upsidedown for two reasons:
1) uninteruppted step to better access the bed
2) a tow chain hook fits perfectly around the ball's shank & won't fall off
Now, I wouldn't go yanking really stuck vehicles using the tow hitch but for light jobs it's fine. I placed a stair tread strip on the top of the steel tube for traction. Runs entire length of the truck's bumper and keeps dorks from tapping the back end in parking lots. Also hits a snowpile before the bumper would, further protecting the aux. reverse lamp underneath. The drop of the ball mount places the aux bumper just at the bottom of the factory bumper which is perfect, since the ¾t Rams sit high as it is. To prevent side-to-side wobbling that normally occurs in a 2" receiver, the bottom of the 2" receiver tube is drilled & tapped for a 5/8" hex bolt. That cinches things tightly. Just remember to apply some grease or "never seize" to the ball mount's shank and that cinch bolt to prevent winter corrosion from removing it come Spring.
I've toyed with the idea of drilling an end cap, pour out the sand, and thread in a Schrader valve to create a handy "air tank" aboard. Although, I don't think the volume would hold much for topping off the big tires!
I have one on my truck now that I fabricated. When camping season ends I switch to an aux bumper that fits into the 2" receiver. A visit to the steel yard and $10 got me 2'x3" thickwall box tubing cut to my required length. I cut/shaped metal end caps, filled it with sand (for extra weight) and welded them in place. Then I welded it to the underside of a ball mount just behind where the ball/nut attaches. The ball mount is inserted upsidedown for two reasons:
1) uninteruppted step to better access the bed
2) a tow chain hook fits perfectly around the ball's shank & won't fall off
Now, I wouldn't go yanking really stuck vehicles using the tow hitch but for light jobs it's fine. I placed a stair tread strip on the top of the steel tube for traction. Runs entire length of the truck's bumper and keeps dorks from tapping the back end in parking lots. Also hits a snowpile before the bumper would, further protecting the aux. reverse lamp underneath. The drop of the ball mount places the aux bumper just at the bottom of the factory bumper which is perfect, since the ¾t Rams sit high as it is. To prevent side-to-side wobbling that normally occurs in a 2" receiver, the bottom of the 2" receiver tube is drilled & tapped for a 5/8" hex bolt. That cinches things tightly. Just remember to apply some grease or "never seize" to the ball mount's shank and that cinch bolt to prevent winter corrosion from removing it come Spring.
I've toyed with the idea of drilling an end cap, pour out the sand, and thread in a Schrader valve to create a handy "air tank" aboard. Although, I don't think the volume would hold much for topping off the big tires!
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IMO Sounds like that could be a little dangerious pressuring tubing like that seeing as it would be succeptiable to being hit... think about it if ya hit something that is pressurized the internal contents is going to be displaced to some extent causeing the tube to split and possibly send schrapnel flying... definatly would not be good especially if it hits a passer by and takes them out..Roger Dodger said:
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I have almost the same thing as Roger.It is full of sand as well for extra ballast weight.Only thing i have added is two uprights at either end to protect the tailights.
It's saved me a few times.I backed over a small handicapped sign post,and it for sure would have damaged the bumper,tailight and bed side if not for the added protection.
If i ever get a new digital camera,I will post some pics.
It's saved me a few times.I backed over a small handicapped sign post,and it for sure would have damaged the bumper,tailight and bed side if not for the added protection.
If i ever get a new digital camera,I will post some pics.
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Guys, check back sometime this weekend.... I'll try to snap a couple pics and one of the ball mount itself so you can see what I'm talking about. I even locked the aux bumper so some thief can't make off with my work!
Adam, yeah that thought of a pressurized tube entered my mind as well but this tubing is 1/8" thick! It hurts when you bang yourself into it! That's alot thicker than some 10gal port. air tank or even compressor tanks! The real downside is the limited volume of air to be stored. Not much for anything other than inflating an ego!
Seriously folks, between the nerf side bars, the aux rear bumper, and the plow, there's a fair amount of protection against those run-away shopping carts!
Adam, yeah that thought of a pressurized tube entered my mind as well but this tubing is 1/8" thick! It hurts when you bang yourself into it! That's alot thicker than some 10gal port. air tank or even compressor tanks! The real downside is the limited volume of air to be stored. Not much for anything other than inflating an ego!
Seriously folks, between the nerf side bars, the aux rear bumper, and the plow, there's a fair amount of protection against those run-away shopping carts!
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I have seen some that slip into your reciever hitch. It looks like a piece of Railroad track, VERY heavy duty. I saw one on a Ram, that had lettering on it: "If you can't RAM it, DODGE it!"
Does anyone know what these are, or have anymore information about who makes them or where to goet one?
Does anyone know what these are, or have anymore information about who makes them or where to goet one?
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snowybowtie probaly the cheapest way to get one if you have access to a welder is to find a local scrap steelshop buy the steel and make your own to your own specs...
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Hope to get out on Sat. morning to snap a few pics of the bumper. Guys, remember this: You don't want to make the bumper so stout that if you hit something it ends up ruining your hitch or worse yet, the truck frame as well. Think about creating a "weak link" in the scheme of it all. I'd rather bend an aux bumper that I can whip up another one for $10 and some time than shell out for a new hitch or frame alignment!
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I know I could make one, I just wanted to see how much that type of thing sells for.
I designed one to build this winter that has a few bends in it, therefore if you were to be rear-ended, it would give a little, but still protect the bumper, without tweaking the frame or hitch.
I designed one to build this winter that has a few bends in it, therefore if you were to be rear-ended, it would give a little, but still protect the bumper, without tweaking the frame or hitch.
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PIC #1
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a guy at the local fab shop has a bumper guard made out of 3" x 10" tubing about ½" thick walls, it is painted black and has "OUCH" on it in 8" tall vinyl letters :grinz :grinz
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PIC #3
I was hoping to post all 3 pics brfore someone replied!! LOL
I used 2"x3" mild box channel that 1/8" wall thickness. I used the famous Lincold "crackerbox 225" set to 110amps, using 1/8" 6013 rod. Fused everything very solid and made for nice fillet welds. I'm gonna just leave the sand in it, rather than fuss around. A strip of adhesive backed, non-slip, stair tread makes for easy entry to the bed, as well as cleaning snow off the tonneau cover.
That hex bolt at bottom right of pic is the 5/8 grade 8 bolt I mentioned to hold the ball mount firmly in the receiver so it doesn't flop around. I need to either cut that one to size or just spend the $1 to get one of the proper length and a lockwasher!
I was hoping to post all 3 pics brfore someone replied!! LOL
I used 2"x3" mild box channel that 1/8" wall thickness. I used the famous Lincold "crackerbox 225" set to 110amps, using 1/8" 6013 rod. Fused everything very solid and made for nice fillet welds. I'm gonna just leave the sand in it, rather than fuss around. A strip of adhesive backed, non-slip, stair tread makes for easy entry to the bed, as well as cleaning snow off the tonneau cover.
That hex bolt at bottom right of pic is the 5/8 grade 8 bolt I mentioned to hold the ball mount firmly in the receiver so it doesn't flop around. I need to either cut that one to size or just spend the $1 to get one of the proper length and a lockwasher!
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