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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am running dual batteries and they both will be charging. I want the second batt. to run the plow pump (direct connection to the pump solenoid from the batt.). I am also running strobes, highlighters and backups as well. I wonder if any of you added a fuse block under the hood and with relays as well. I have an idea what I am going to do, I just need some pics of this if you have it.
The marine store is a great place for elect. stuff.
T.J.
 

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If your going to use relays you don't need fuses. the relay would trip and then re set after ot cools. Most of the time a relay is enough, just make sure your feed wire to your supply is adequate to handle all the amps on all the lines, the best thing tp do is get a distribution block and feed it with a #8 wire and then split off of the block to feed all your relays individually. Also make sure the battery your running off of supplies more than 2 times the amperage you need, if not you will suck that battery out of juice really fast. What you should do is run the plow off of 1 battery and your accessories off the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I do not agree with you on using NO fuses. The Potter and Brumfield relays I use do not have a tripping mechanism in them so I need to run fused power to them.
T.J.
 

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I have made many control systems for trucks.

The last was for a friend’s truck; it is by far the must advanced one I have made for a plow truck. It has a hand-held enclosure in the truck, which has a small multi-conductor cable that runs into an “aux junction boxes” which houses everything fuses, relays, etc. From there the relays power, the beacons, truck backup lights, sander backup lights, the backup alarm, salter solenoid, and v-box spreader controls (motor starter, throttle, clutch). All the backup controls like the lights and the alarm can be controlled automatically or manually. The cost of this unit was about $500.00 Canadian this is my cost.

Here are some links to help you out. Marine stores are to expensive.

AUTOMOTIVE RELAY SOCKETS AND CONNECTORS
http://www.customconnector.com/product_line.htm

FUSE HOLDERS
http://www.littelfuse.com/ASP/Search/Detail.asp?ID=169

Switchs, Relays, Enclosure, And A Place To Buy The Above
http://digi-key.com

And use fuses!!!!
NEVER RUN UNFUSED POWER.
 

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GOTTA use fuses.Most relays have no current limiting capabilities whatsoever.

Doesn't really matter which battery you connect to.When your battery are connected in parallel,it's just like having one big battery.As long as your cable connecting the batteries are of the correct size,it won't make a difference where you connect your accessories.I'd just connect them where ever it is easy,and convenient.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks people. I have 4 P&B relays and sockets for them. Those 4 realys are controlling my HI LOW plow lites, backup lights that will be tripped by the factory backup lights and other stuff I foget what else I have. I will also wire the backups so I can shut them off when not needed and also turn them on independ. of the trip wire as well.
I have a **** Cepek relay to powerup the highlighters. I also got an aux. fuse block (6) from West marine and a contact strip as well for my gounds for the relays. I just have to make a panel and mount it to the side of my aux. battery tray. I will post pics when I lay all the stuff out on the panel. Thanks for the input.

T.J.
 

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If you use a termianl block to hook up all your accessories. Example Back up lights, strobes and that stuff doesnt it have to be protected from water getting on it ? I sell the terminal blocks at Home Depot but they aint waterproof.
 

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Maybe what you say is partially true, I know that when we were having a electrical nightmare with one of our trucks we took it to the local auto electric shop and the guy ripped out most of the "spagetti and scotchlocks" as he called it and ran a nice terminal block with a row of relays all mounted to a panel under the hood. From my understanding he told me he removed the fuses and just used the relays. However now you have got the mind going and I will have to check tommorow when I go into the shop and see how it's set up.
 

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If you use a termianl block to hook up all your accessories. Example Back up lights, strobes and that stuff doesnt it have to be protected from water getting on it ? I sell the terminal blocks at Home Depot but they aint waterproof.
Waterproofing is not a big deal, however corrosion proofing is. Liquid electrical tape will help a lot. I use it on all terminal blocks. It also works great to stop the screw from coming loose due to the braided wire thermally expanding and contracting.
 

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What are "Scotch Locks"? I never heard of them.

I'm picturing what I call quick taps, basically blue or yellow square connector that you take pliers and push a blade into the two wires then close a latch molded into the connectors.
 

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Why not mount a fuse panel somewhere under the dash inside the truck cab? That is what I did to mine. The nice part is that in the engine compartment, there will be less wires coming directly from battery, so it is neat & easier to trace the problem. Just run a large gauge wire (with in-line fuse!!!!) from the battery and route it through the firewall, down under the dash to the fuse panel. Make sure the hole are protected with grommet as not to chaffer or cut the main wire. From there, you can add all your accessories circuit right from that panel, which will make the job much easier & neater. You also could have the main wire switched (meaning power is only on when ignition is on) by connecting it to a high capacity relay or a solenoid. My suggestion would be, if you plan on having a total circuit loads of less than 30amps, then a high capacity relay would be fine. A solenoid would be much better choice for circuits totaling over 30amps.

A little off topic, but I hope that it would be ok for this case. I have a brand new Buss ATC fuse panel with 12 circuit slots, still sealed in its original bag from store. Never needed it but would like to get rid of it. Anyone that would like one, send me a PM and I will make a great deal on it.
 

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I think landman must be thinking of breakers, not relays. You'll need some type of overload protection as the others have stated. I use a 6 breaker box from Car Quest, it has 6 15 amp breakers in it with a sealable lid. costs about $35 and eliminates the need for fuses. I mounted it up under the dash and fed it with a 10 gauge wire running through a 50 amp breaker, the biggest I could find.

I never run all the accessories at once, so the 50 amp carries the load.
 

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good source for high amp breakers

If you are looking for high amp breakers, check out a marine supply company. I am spoiled because I live on the coast and they are plentiful. Like Pelican, I had a hard time finding anything over 50 amps. I stumbled onto the marine line while shopping for some boat seat pedestals. Water resistant and cheap (comparatively) too!
 

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Breakers are definatly the way to go... this way you know ya wont be hunting out fuses at 3 am cause one blew...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK, here is what I came up with today while tinkering in the shop.
I made a panel out of some scraps steel and used some angle to attach it to. I located all the holes and drilled as needed. Then I welded the angle to the aux. battery tray I am running. I am by far not done. Here are some pics of what I have so far. I already painted it as well. I also have more relays where the holes are I just did not put them on yet, you get the idea though.

T.J.





 

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