Quick conect jumper cables onto the plow power supply? - Snow Plow Forum -†Let's Talk Snow Discussion Forums

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Old 12-14-2004, 01:18 PM
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Quick conect jumper cables onto the plow power supply?

I've been thinking about this for some time and figured i would run it past you guys. I really like the quick connect jumper cables on tow trucks and such.

I have a Fisher MM2 You guys think the power supply feeding the plow would jump a vehical off my truck or jump my Duramax without nuking itself?

Then I just need to come up with a end to attach a set of cables to and set up a relay to trigger the relay feeding the thing.

Or does anyone see a reason that it would mess up my plow to always have juice running to the power supply? most of the times when the plow is on I'm using it. Or would it constantly drain on the system if the truck wasnt running?(dont see why but its been awhile since I looked at the diagram and I figured another set of eyes looking at it is a good idea) I may just run heavier cable directly to my battery and put the fisher end on it, or get some actual quick attach jumper cables and switch my fishers connections over to that style.

Thoughts, ideas, oppinions?
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Old 12-14-2004, 01:30 PM
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You will need a stronger,constant duty solenoid.The plow solenoid isn't enough.

The plow battery cables aren't really strong enough either.Not to boost a diesel.

I just run a separate Anderson connector hardwired to the batteries with 0 Ga cable.Most of our trucks have this.I have booster cables with Anderson connectors on both ends,so you don't need to connect to any of the batteries for boosting.Just plug in to both trucks and go.I also make up charging cables for my charger too,so I can just plug in the charger to all the trucks.

What you are imagining is good though,as it gives you redundancy.the thicker wires will carry more current,and the extra solenoid could be used if the plow solenoid fails.
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Old 12-14-2004, 01:39 PM
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I was thinking of just ditching the plow noid all together and running thicker wire if it wouldnt hold(and I was kinda thinking it wouldnt)

Anderson connects are the names of those dudes? Would they work good as a plow conections? how water resistant are they?

Any problem with feeding the plow constant juice?

I just dont see the reason for having a noid other than not always having that stub of wires hot......but that dosnt really bother me.
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Old 12-14-2004, 01:48 PM
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Rat,

The solenoid is what kicks in to feed 12V to the pump motor.

Hooking it live will have your pump constantly running.

Time for plan B
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Old 12-14-2004, 01:52 PM
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He's right,the plow motor will run all the time.

You could beef up the wiring,and run the Anderson connector for the plow.I would run two solenoids.The OEM plow solenoid,and a heavier duty solenoid rated for starting current.Leave the plow solenoid wired as is,and wire the other to a control switch to turn it on for boosting.Basiaclly they will be wired in parallel.
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Old 12-14-2004, 01:54 PM
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SOB.....i was wondering if that was the case or if it was just to remove the constant hot to the supply.

Suppose i could remote mount a noid to the head gear. Or getting a big badassed noid and wiring it in such a way i could fool it when i needed to jump my truck or jump someone else.

Anoth driving issue here is i am thinking of removing my keyed door locks. So I need a way to energize my truck if i have a totaly dead bat so i can get inside(hood will be shut remember) Another thought is running a small seperate hidden wire to the locks so i can apply 12v to it, and unlock my truck thata way. Only way I will be able to enter my vehical is with the keyless entry. Make sense?
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Old 12-14-2004, 01:58 PM
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I can see wiring them in paralle getting to be a bit messy.

I'm starting to like the idea of a large(weather rated it will need to be) noid on the head gear.......although i will need another wire to remember to hook up to trigger it......or is there a suitable wire on the plow side of the harness I could tap into to trigger the noid for the plow?
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Old 12-14-2004, 02:23 PM
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I hooked up a buddy's Meyers using the jumper cab;e plug for the power to the pump.

If he wants to jump soneone durring plow season, he has to unplug pump, move wire to other side of solenoid, then plug in booster cables.
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Old 12-16-2004, 07:54 AM
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I just saw a kit the other day at NAPA. It included the grill mounted connector, and a 20" set of cables with the male connector on one end and clamps on the other. I can't remember the price, but I think this setup would be a lot easier that "jury rigging" the plow connector. Besides, as mentioned above the plow connector doesn't seem heavy enough.
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Old 12-16-2004, 08:10 AM
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This kit from AW Direct , is $79.
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Old 12-16-2004, 11:33 AM
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Ratlover, correct me if I'm not on the same page here, but this sounds like a great idea... Have heavy gauge cable and the anderson connector wired "always hot" directly to the battery. Then, move your plow solenoid to the headgear. You would then plug into the anderson connector, which feeds the solenoid mounted on the headgear, which then feeds the plow motor when triggered by the controller. This would require one extra wire hook-up, being the wire to trigger the plow solenoid to feed the juice to the plow motor. Then, if you need to jump someone, just unplug the plow from the anderson connector, plug in the cables, and voila! No screwing with solenoids to jump another vehicle.

This sounds like a sweet solution with only 2 drawbacks: 1. the solenoid would be mounted in a harsh environment on the headhear (possible soluntion - build a case of some kind around it to keep it safe and dry) 2. You have one extra small low current wire to hook up when putting the plow on and off (solution to this would be a weatherpack connector, as it's low current. You'd just have to remember to hook it up, and create a cover for it for the off-season).

Hmmm, got me thinkin' now... I might just have to do something like this...
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Old 10-31-2006, 05:36 PM
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solenoid position

The original blizzards did have the solenoid on the pump. Mine still does and works fine
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Old 10-31-2006, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPSS
This kit from AW Direct , is $79.
This is a good deal,and simple as pie.

If you can find a good deal on a set of long heavy cables,just buy them and add your own Anderson connector where you want it.

If you have multiple trucks,you can install them on all of them,and make a double ended anderson connector cable for boosting each other.This is really sweet,no cables or clamps to connect.
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Old 10-31-2006, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wizardsr
2. You have one extra small low current wire to hook up when putting the plow on and off (solution to this would be a weatherpack connector, as it's low current. You'd just have to remember to hook it up, and create a cover for it for the off-season).

Hmmm, got me thinkin' now... I might just have to do something like this...
Donít worry about that. I use weather packs for part of my back plow and other stuff. You can get little plugs that go into the weather pack just glue them into an mating pack and put that on when you want to keep the water out of the outlet.



ratlover

Do not worry about salt or dirt getting into your Anderson connector. Chris did my back plow install last year on my truck and we used one of those as the main power connector for the pump. When the plow is not on it gets crap on it. Dirt, salt you name it. Clean it once in a wile put some fluid film on it and your good to go.
The connectors go on tight and so they usually create a good contact when they rub together. They are usually open in the back so and dirt of crap gets pushed out the back of it anyhow. You can get a rubber cap that fits into it.



Check here for the connectros you ant

Chris told me there are a few different types of those connectors. Knock off's and the real deal. Anderson is the brand name of the real deal just like Kleenex is a tissue brand, but yet people always ask for a Kleenex and not a tissue.

Good luck on the hunt for the connector. Hope the pics help you out.

Dave.
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:44 AM
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cables

All my trucks are set up with grill mounted Anderson booster connectors hard wired to batterys, i have three sets of 25 foot 00 booster cables there easy to build your self , the wreckers carry a set with regular jumper clamps for cust cars and trucks.

Back in the Army we called them Slave cables and we could start anything in the fleet with this set up , so for the cost of a spool of 00 i made enough to boost off are own plus three sets for Cust vechs.

Keep in mind i run late model Fords with no battery gauges so the only warning you get when the trucks are gonna die is a quick flicker from the Radio and a Abs light still to this day i have never seen the battery like on these POS systems light up for undercharge because the alts are fielding there is no reason for the light to come on , The Service truck is the only truck capable of boosting itself off with the Welder/ gen . This year i am trying something new on one of the trucks i wired in a iso switch and a third battery in a jamb you hit the iso switch and theres enough in the third to jump off a killed diesel it doesnt take much of a charge to refire them has they get killed from happy hands. \\\

One of my best plow guys cant break the happy hands habit even making him set in the cold for a 1/2 hour waiting for one of us hasnt broke him so in the name of productivity i wired his truck with this back up battery.
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:50 AM
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JMO, the weatherpack connectors and plugs are junk. We had them on our sprayer and were constantly repairing the corroded ends. Last year we switched the plugs to metal 6 pole trailer type plugs because I was sick of the weatherpacks. That and decent shrink tube and not those crappy butt splices with shrink tube around them.

Also helps if you have someone that has somewhat of a clue when they're wiring things. Remember our conversation yesterday Fred? About the defector?
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:03 PM
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jumpers front and rear

I also run a plug to the back of my truck where I can power a trailer winch, juice a dump trailer, or jump a car on the road without having to turn around and face it. Very convenient.
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Old 11-01-2006, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pickering Snow
All my trucks are set up with grill mounted Anderson booster connectors hard wired to batterys, i have three sets of 25 foot 00 booster cables there easy to build your self , the wreckers carry a set with regular jumper clamps for cust cars and trucks.

Back in the Army we called them Slave cables and we could start anything in the fleet with this set up , so for the cost of a spool of 00 i made enough to boost off are own plus three sets for Cust vechs.

Keep in mind i run late model Fords with no battery gauges so the only warning you get when the trucks are gonna die is a quick flicker from the Radio and a Abs light still to this day i have never seen the battery like on these POS systems light up for undercharge because the alts are fielding there is no reason for the light to come on , The Service truck is the only truck capable of boosting itself off with the Welder/ gen . This year i am trying something new on one of the trucks i wired in a iso switch and a third battery in a jamb you hit the iso switch and theres enough in the third to jump off a killed diesel it doesnt take much of a charge to refire them has they get killed from happy hands. \\\

One of my best plow guys cant break the happy hands habit even making him set in the cold for a 1/2 hour waiting for one of us hasnt broke him so in the name of productivity i wired his truck with this back up battery.
Fred when i was plowing in a '95 F350 with a 460 engine it started to go nuts lights blinking and i'm like don't die on me .G ot the truck back to the garage and before we could get the doors up to bring it in it died ,good think i left the blade up. charged up the new battery and then went back out .I guess i used the plow more than the battery could handle.
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Old 11-02-2006, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cat320
Fred when i was plowing in a '95 F350 with a 460 engine it started to go nuts lights blinking and i'm like don't die on me .G ot the truck back to the garage and before we could get the doors up to bring it in it died ,good think i left the blade up. charged up the new battery and then went back out .I guess i used the plow more than the battery could handle.

Rick thats Happy hands buddy!!!! . This subject gets brought up every year and honestly guys who havent plowed for a long time can kill the best set ups . The worst truck i have for killing Batterys is a F-150 even with two batterys and a oversized Alt only a few of us can run that truck threw a storm its also the only truck i own with a Meyer . My brothers both seniors to me can run that truck for hours with no problems both use to have to get out and angle the blade for my dad so perhaps they understood early on that constant up down left right isnt ness when plowing.

When plowing with the Blizzards i make very few changes when plowing i carry the blade a few inches off the ground and angle push windrow on direction. You have to be a amp counter to understand that the best charging system in the world wont overcome happy hands.
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Old 11-02-2006, 02:57 AM
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Not sure why I didn't think of this earlier, that POS Dodge that you fixed for me earlier this year did the same thing, Fred. I know sometimes I have happy hands too, but where I plowed with that truck had loading docks upon loading docks so the back blade was in constant use--huge, huge draw. I had just pulled away from the building and pushed to the end of the lot and as I tried to raise the blades, it died on me. No warning, no flickering lights. I barely got it cranked over and started, then sat there idling at about 5,000 RPM's trying to get the freakin' battery charged up again. Ended up switching over to the Honda in a box with pump like Geer has to use for the rest of it's normal plowing life.

It might just be me, but more likely the accounts I had with all the loading docks and lots of back blade use, but I have never had any long term luck with electrical, that's why I'm slowly switching everything to central hyd. Tried new batteries even a D8 in a tool box, upgraded alternator, couldn't get it to work and keep the batteries charged.

Fastjohnny, thanks for the idea. (Peter can attest to this-different thread), but I have been full of stupidity lately. I have the same setup on 2 trucks for back plow pumps and never gave a thought to carrying a set of jumper cables to use off that plug. I did have enough brains to be using them for our dump trailer for several years now.
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Old 11-02-2006, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pickering Snow
Rick thats Happy hands buddy!!!! . This subject gets brought up every year and honestly guys who havent plowed for a long time can kill the best set ups . The worst truck i have for killing Batterys is a F-150 even with two batterys and a oversized Alt only a few of us can run that truck threw a storm its also the only truck i own with a Meyer . My brothers both seniors to me can run that truck for hours with no problems both use to have to get out and angle the blade for my dad so perhaps they understood early on that constant up down left right isnt ness when plowing.

When plowing with the Blizzards i make very few changes when plowing i carry the blade a few inches off the ground and angle push windrow on direction. You have to be a amp counter to understand that the best charging system in the world wont overcome happy hands.
I like that phrase "happy hands " lol I think alot had to due with the system the had in there too I don't think it was kind on the electric system And that truck was the intersecton,parking lots and small road truck .I mostly plowed streets with it but I had to do the clean up at the end of streets and cultisacs and all the other stuff the big 6 wheeler didn't do.
But your right i was probably a little heavy on the stick I never had any other problems with that truck or any other ones after that night . lol
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Old 11-02-2006, 05:57 AM
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I don't understand why running the jumper cables through a solenoid is a problem. A continuous-duty solenoid should be more than up to the task of jumping another vehicle. Just add a little hidden switch under the dash somewhere, or maybe even one of the "hooded" safety switches to activate the solenoid for jumping duty.

Solenoid on the headgear?!? You guys are nuts.
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EZSnow
I don't understand why running the jumper cables through a solenoid is a problem. A continuous-duty solenoid should be more than up to the task of jumping another vehicle. Just add a little hidden switch under the dash somewhere, or maybe even one of the "hooded" safety switches to activate the solenoid for jumping duty.

Solenoid on the headgear?!? You guys are nuts.
Not nuts... buts with no snow around for the last... 6 or 7 months leaves waaaaay too much time to sit around and think long and hard about things.
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