Hydraulic cylinder repair - Snow Plow Forum - Let's Talk Snow Discussion Forums
 
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post #1 of 23 Old 09-21-2009, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Hydraulic cylinder repair

Hello all....

Did a search to no avail....

I have an older JD 170 Skid Steer. One of the rams that lifts the loader is leaking. The seal where the chrome rod comes through. My question is this - Is the "piston" bolted to the end of the rod? If I disassemble the cylinder, will I be able to replace the seal without cutting the end of the rod, and re-welding it?

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post #2 of 23 Old 09-21-2009, 04:53 PM
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The piston/rod are the same thing. Should have a packing nut on the end of the barrel(where the crome starts to show), remove that and you should be able to pull the rod right out. Shoud have a seal set right behind if not part of the packing nut and a seal at the basse of the rod since its a dual acting cylinder.

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post #3 of 23 Old 09-21-2009, 04:58 PM
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A couple of places you could take it if you want.... Cox Machine in Searsmont .. Or Motion Industries In Union.. I use Cox Machine alot and have only gone to Motion when Cox didn't have prts needed... If you need Phone numbers P.M. me
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post #4 of 23 Old 09-21-2009, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. Motion is right around the corner from me. Never even thought of them. Used to going to Hammond.

Anyway, I understand how the seal/packing nut etc. is assembled, but how to I get it off the rod? If the rod is enlarged for the "piston" inside the cylinder, It won't go that way. And there is a pipe welded transverse on the exposed end of the rod.

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post #5 of 23 Old 09-22-2009, 02:43 AM
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If you have to take the piston off of the rod, be aware that that big nut is torqued on there to numbers that will make your eyebrows curl. I beleive that even on my little JD 310C backhoe, those piston nuts are on there at over 1000 (yes, 1000) foot pounds. I can't handle that reliably, so I take them to the shops for removal and repair.

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post #6 of 23 Old 09-22-2009, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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So my cordless Makita impact gun won't do it? LOL
So the piston IS bolted to the rod. I have a friend with a bus shop. They have 3/4 inch impact guns. Hopefully that will do it.

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post #7 of 23 Old 09-22-2009, 09:49 PM
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Here's what you need to know.

http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/...ad.php?t=14458

I wouldn't bet on the impact, but a skid steer may not be too big. Get the torque spec from Deere, and see if you can rent a 5:1 geared reducer head. I have one and it is good for both the bull work and the torque setting.

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post #8 of 23 Old 09-23-2009, 03:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the help. I will let you all know how it goes.

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post #9 of 23 Old 09-23-2009, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Just looking at my tractor, not sure a normal gland wrench will work. My gland has four square notches around the circumference. What is the proper tool to use for removal?

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post #10 of 23 Old 09-24-2009, 01:56 AM
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Just looking at my tractor, not sure a normal gland wrench will work. My gland has four square notches around the circumference. What is the proper tool to use for removal?
A two finger will work they do make a 4 also the gland nut should not be that tight a two wont work, a Hydro cylinder is a hydro cylinder they havent changed that much sounds from past posts you have a pretty good grasp on mechanical things once the gland nut is off you can install the ness seals and packings, also make sure the chrome is ok on the cylinder to prevent future repeat failure. The cylinder can be rechromed.

Dont take my comment of a cylinder is cylinder out of context it is like Jeff said there are single acting and duel , my point is when i started doing field service work i had to look at the job and view it this way otherwise i would have had a limited menu, On the wrench deal i too often have done cylinder repair were either the two gland nut holes or 4 are all oblonged this is from a past repair were someone used a punch and hammer to get the nut loose does it work i suppose does it make it tough for the next person yes.

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post #11 of 23 Old 09-24-2009, 03:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info Fred.
I'm not worried about rebuilding the cylinder. Can't be any more difficult than fixing the jackshaft into the gearbox or adjusting the clutches LOL.
I don't mind spending the $85 on the gland wrench, but I'm not sure it will work. It would seem like the dowels would grab the "three sided" holes on the edge, but I thought someone might have experience. I might try a punch and hammer and see if they even budge.

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post #12 of 23 Old 09-24-2009, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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Now I'm baffled. Here's some picks. The before is actually the other side, but you get the idea LOL. Needless to say, I took a hammer and punch to the locknut. Much to my surprise, it's cast.

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Oh boy. Everything seems to work fine still, except for the leak.

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post #13 of 23 Old 09-24-2009, 07:56 AM
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If that middle pic looks like i think that cylinder is never gonna hold a seal it looks like a chunk of chrome is missing. , the lock ring Glad nut can be replaced , however you need to get the cylinder rechromed or your just wasting time.

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post #14 of 23 Old 09-24-2009, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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No, the ram is fine. Just some "stuff" kicking around. How do I get the damn thing apart from here?

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post #15 of 23 Old 09-24-2009, 11:19 AM
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No, the ram is fine. Just some "stuff" kicking around. How do I get the damn thing apart from here?
Hand file?

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post #16 of 23 Old 09-24-2009, 12:44 PM
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Drive the threaded section into the case CAREFULLY with a brass hammer. There should be a round ring keeping it from coming out. Small punch or screwdriver to remove ring and then you can pull the ram and nut out.

It may also be a flat ring that comes out a hole in the side of the case

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post #17 of 23 Old 09-24-2009, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Hand file?
Yeah, that's the ticket for this job.

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post #18 of 23 Old 09-24-2009, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Jerre, thanks for the info. Makes sense now, the locknut would hold the gland against the snap ring. Gonna clean it out tonight, and put the Fluid Film to it. I'll call the dealer tomorrow to order another lock nut

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post #19 of 23 Old 09-24-2009, 02:46 PM
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I have no idea where Denial ME is,but i will be home all weekend.If your seal kit has the urethane u cup seals,they are just about impossible to install in the rod gland without the special tool for them which i happen to have.I just did all 4 loader cylinders on my backhoe,without the tool i couldn;t get them in,and i've dealt with hydraulics for 30 years now.PM me if you need a hand.

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post #20 of 23 Old 09-24-2009, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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I have no idea where Denial ME is,but i will be home all weekend.If your seal kit has the urethane u cup seals,they are just about impossible to install in the rod gland without the special tool for them which i happen to have.I just did all 4 loader cylinders on my backhoe,without the tool i couldn;t get them in,and i've dealt with hydraulics for 30 years now.PM me if you need a hand.
Denial is the state I live in. I just moved here from Euphoria. I'm about an hour an a half from you. Once I get the kit, I will take pics and post them. I really appreciate the offer. Truthfully, it would be more economical for me to take it to the dealer, but where's the fun in that? LOL

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post #21 of 23 Old 11-03-2009, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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So I pulled the cylinder off the SS today. The threaded piece Jerre referred to will not move into the cylinder. I used a hardwood parellel clamp and pounded the snot out of it. It doesn't move. I have scraped out all the junk and rust as far as I can tell. It's currently standing on end, with that cavity filled with SeaFoam.

Any suggestions? Thanks, Palmer

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post #22 of 23 Old 11-04-2009, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got it!

Got it apart today. Took a bit of ingenuity, heat, seafoam, and gentle persuasion. And by persuasion, I mean a bigger hammer. 8lb sledge.

Ending up taking a 12 inch piece of 2 inch black "iron" pipe, and splitting it so I could get it around the rod. Notched the top to fit around the clevis, and put a pin through the clevis. Then I could "tap" the end of the clevis to put the force directly on the gland, or whatever the proper lingo is. It started to move a bit, so I used the lock ring to pull it back up. Back and forth a few times, then some heat, then the BFH.

Going to take it down to the bus barn tomorrow. Hopefully the 3/4" impact gun will get the nut off the piston. I'll need to rethread the the hole for the zerk fitting on the end.

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post #23 of 23 Old 11-08-2009, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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Got it all back together last night. I thought I damaged the rod seal when I put it together backwards, but it seems to be working fine. Thanks for all your help.

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